INCI Name: Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6

Description:

Gelmaker ULTRA is an anionic acrylic copolymer dispersed in medicinal grade white oil. It is typically used as thickener for aqueous solutions and stable O/W emulsions at any stage of manufacture. It requires no pre-mixing or special storage facilities, even at low pH.

Typical applications:

Gelmaker ULTRA is design for use in a range of and applications in the cosmetic industry. Typically it is used to enhance the performance of skin and hair care formulations. A typical application level in a skin cream is around 0.4 – 4 % Gelmaker ULTRA as supplied.

─ Can be added to cold aqueous simply by agitation.

─ Aids suspension and stabilization of organic inorganic pigment.

─ High thickening efficiency, hence low usage levels in many applications.

─ Gives good uniform performance, this reproducibility is unattainable with natural gums.

─ Stable emulsion capability at broad pH range from 2 to 11

 Prime Functions:

─ Thickener

─ Suspending agent

─ Stabilizing agent

─ Emulsifying agent

─ Promotes good spreading characteristics

─ Opacifier

 Typical properties

Nature: Non – aqueous liquid dispersion of a polymer

Appearance: Mobile liquid

Color: Off white

Odor: Slight acrylic

Solids %: > 55

Viscosity as supplied (25oC): 600 – 1200 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.3; 30 rpm)

Viscosity of 1% solution at pH6: 10,000 – 15,000 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.6; 20 rpm)

Viscosity of 1% solution at pH3: 6,000 – 10,000 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.6; 20 rpm)

pH of 1% solution: 5.2 – 6.2

 Properties of Gelmaker ULTRA:

Gelmaker ULTRA is supplied in a concentrated liquid form that is freeze thaw stable. Gelmaker ULTRA allows the formulator to eliminate several stages from normal procedure. Gelmaker ULTRA eliminates the need to select specific nonionic emulsifiers in skin care systems. Gelmaker ULTRA eliminates the need to calculate H.L.B. No need to select specific nonionic emulsifiers in skin cares systems. No neutralization is required to generate viscosity build. Sodium chloride is not required to obtain viscosity build. Gelmaker ULTRA is designed for use in the presence of anionic and nonionic ingredients. Gelmaker ULTRA gives good emollients and rubs in characteristics in skin creams and lotions.

 Formulating with Gelmaker ULTRA:

Gelmaker ULTRA is designed for use in the presence of anionic and nonionic ingredients. It is particularly effective when formulating around pH 2 – 11. Gelmaker ULTRA can be used in formulations containing a wide range of oil and fat or silicone ingredients up to a total of 30%. This enables the simple formulation of skin creams without heating or the use of further emulsifiers.

 Typical application use levels:

Cosmetic Emulsion base agent, Thickening base agent, use dosage as 0.4 – 4.0%

Foundations and Make-up Remover thickening agent, use dosage as 0.1 – 1.0

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About Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is one of the very few skin care ingredients that is supported by strong and reliable scientific research and evidence.

However, it is also one of the most difficult products to formulate with, because it is extremely unstable.

As soon as l-ascorbic acid is mixed with water it starts oxidizing. This makes the l-ascorbic acid ineffective and also dangerous, because oxidized L-ascorbic acid is a pro-oxidant which may increase the formation of free radicals.

So, the challenge has been to make stable L-ascorbic acid products, or to make l-ascorbic acid itself stable.

Currently there are three ways this has been done:

1. The Skinceuticals Vitamin C Plus Ferulic Acid + Vitamin E formulation: The Skinceuticals study and patent shows that Ferulic acid stabilizes L-ascorbic acid, and in a lab this is probably true. However, the reality is that by the time customers get their bottle of Skinceuticals C+E+Ferulic it has been sitting on the shelves for too long, and when they open their bottle the product has turned orange, which means the L-ascorbic has started oxidizing and has become pro-oxidant.

2. Anhydrous C: “Anyhydrous” means “without water,” and this is a great way to formulate with the unstable Vitamin C. Instead of dissolving the vitamin C powder in water, it is mixed and dispersed into a silicone gel. W hen the silicone is applied to the face it acts like a dermal patch. The l-ascorbic acid will slowly be dissolved by the natural moisture in the skin, and the L-ascorbic acid will then be absorbed into the skin.

3. Vitamin C derivatives: To improve the stability of vitamin C in skin care, scientists have been looking for alternative solutions. One of these has been to create Vitamin C derivatives. Usually these are made by combining ascorbic acid with other molecules. Examples of these are the water soluble Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and the oil soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (which is also known as Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)

Vitamin C derivatives

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble vitamin C derivative. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is not acidic so it does not irritate the skin and it is more stable than vitamin C.

Studies have shown that Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is JUST as effective at boosting skin collagen synthesis as L-ascorbic acid.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate has proven to be an effective skin lightener, reducing hyperpigemnetation in some test subject.

Finally, studies have shown that Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate protects against UVB induced skin damage, such as inflammation and free radical formation, both duuring and after exposure to sunlight.

Even Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a lot more stable than L-ascorbic acid, it still degrades slowly when exposed to light and air.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate ( Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is the latest development in Vitamin C derivatives.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is oil soluble, just like your skin, which means that it easily penetrates into the skin. It is not acidic and it does not require a low pH to get it to penetrate the skin so it does not sting. It is also stable in air and water for up to 18 months, which means it will work as an anti-oxidant long after you start using it.

Studies have shown that Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an effective skin care product. It effectively suppresses UVB-induced skin pigmentation, possibly through its anti-oxidative activity.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate also prevented UVA induced oxidative stress, and it boosted collagen synthesis.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) References

Kameyama K, Sakai C, Kondoh S, Yonemoto K, Nishiyama S, Tagawa M, Murata T, Ohnuma T, Quigley J, Dorsky A, Bucks D, Blanock K. Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo.

Geesin JC, Gordon JS, Berg RA. Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate.

Austria R, Semenzato A, Bettero A., Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations.

Kobayashi S, Takehana M, Kanke M, Itoh S, Ogata E. Postadministration protective effect of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-phosphate on the development of UVB-induced cutaneous damage in mice.

Kobayashi S, Takehana M, Itoh S, Ogata E. Protective effect of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2 phosphate against skin damage induced by UVB irradiation.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate ( Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate References

Xiao L, Kaneyasu K, Saitoh Y, Terashima Y, Kowata Y, Miwa N. Cytoprotective effects of the lipoidic-liquiform pro-vitamin C tetra-isopalmitoyl-ascorbate (VC-IP) against ultraviolet-A ray-induced injuries in human skin cells together with collagen retention, MMP inhibition and p53 gene repression.

Ochiai Y, Kaburagi S, Obayashi K, Ujiie N, Hashimoto S, Okano Y, Masaki H, Ichihashi M, Sakurai H. A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties.

Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage.

Due to popular demand, BulkActives is now offering Sea Kelp BioFerment (also known as sea kelp ferment or seakelp bioferment) in different sizes for less than you’ll find it anywhere else.

What is Sea Kelp Bioferment?

Sea Kelp Bioferment is a natural kelp extract that has been derived by fermentation of Sea Kelp using Lactobacillus, the same bacteria that produces yogurt, sour cream and sour dough breads, among many other foods. Sea Kelp Bioferment is a natural kelp extract that is obtained using traditional fermentation technology.

The fermentation process increases the bioavailability of many chemical compounds by freeing them from the food matrix to which they are typically bound. In addition, the principle of fermentation allows for the isolation and concentration of naturally occurring phytochemicals

Fermentation breaks down the cellular tissue of the kelp leaf, thereby increasing the bioavailability of the naturally occurring chemical compounds abundant in kelp. Fermentation and subsequent reduction of the kelp liquor results in the concentration of these vital nutrients. Naturally occurring algin, the mucilaginous intercellular material found in kelp thickens this product to a gel consistency.

How do I use Sea Kelp bioferment?

Sea Kelp Bioferment, a natural film former, acts as an excellent oil-free moisturizer. It can be used full strength on the face and body and used as a gentle styling gel in the hair, adding bounce and shine. It can be used as a base for the addition of many of the cosmetic actives we carry or added to formulations of creams, lotions, toners, shampoos and other personal care products.

Sea Kelp Bioferment can be used as a great nutritive active. Used alone, it’s perfect for people with oily skin as it moisturizes without supplying extra oil. It’s firming, healing, soothing for any skin type. It is also incredibly effective for normal and dry skin, as it is a powerful nutritive moisturizer. It can be added to almost any product – from creams to serums to washes and lotions, it is the perfect active for almost any purpose. Sea Kelp ferment can also be used 100% pure as a serum base, hair conditioner, or shaving gel.

Directions For Use:

Sea Kelp Bioferment can be added to the water phase of cosmetic formulations and heated to 80°C (167°F) without problems. It is heat stable. Sea Kelp ferment can also be used 100% pure as a serum base, conditioner, or shaving gel.

BulkActives’ Sea Kelp bioferment

Our Sea Kelp Bioferment is made by a local, licensed  manufacturer of cosmeceuticals, using bull kelp sourced from the North American coast.

SeaKelp Ferment is available here: http://www.bulkactives.com/seakelpferment.htm

I recently read a post on another forum, and was slightly annoyed that an email I wrote about one of my recipes was either not understood or quoted out of context, or maybe I was not clear enough in my answer.

So, let me explain.

Ferulic acid is soluble in an alcohol.

I know that some people claim they have dissolved it in water of glycerin, but I wonder if they confuse ‘well dispersed’ with ‘dissolved’. There is a big difference, but because Ferulic acid is such a very fine powder it may be hard to physically tell the difference.

Now, what alcohols are suitable for dissolving Ferulic acid?

In my recipe I suggest ethanol or Propylene Glycol. My recipe does not suggest denatured alcohol, and I also do not suggest that people buy this.

There is a difference between ethanol and denatured alcohol.

“Ethanol, is also called ethyl alcohol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, or drinking alcohol.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol

“Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has additives to make it toxic, unpalatable, or otherwise undrinkable. In some cases it is also dyed.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

My recipe clearly states to use ethanol. One customer wrote that she bought ethanol, and got a bottle of denatured alcohol. This is an issue between her and the supplier she used. I suggested that she contact her supplier to verify what it was she actually ordered and received.

It may be possible to buy NON-denatured  ethanol where you live. However, in some countries this product is not available. In the USA people could buy Everclear (if available in your state), or you can simply use a high alcohol content VODKA.

Regarding the use of alcohols in skin care products.

I am well aware that a particular ‘scientific’ supplier makes a big deal out of this.

On their product pages she clearly states the solubility of her powder IF it is water or oil soluble.

If it is not, then there is no solubility info displayed, but they then claim that “The powder will not dissolve immediately, but will release components slowly into the cream/lotion.”

I think that this is a ridiculous claim to make, but it most definitely does help sell all their powders.

So, rant over.

In short, if you want to use actives that are alcohol soluble then use NON-denatured alcohol (  ethanol), Everclear, or vodka. DO not use denatured alcohol.

If you don’t want to use any alcohol in your skin care products, then do not buy powders that only dissolve in alcohol.

If you want to try alternative solvents, like glycerin, please make sure that the powder has actually dissolved, not just well-dispersed.

Preservatives are chemicals that kill bacteria, fungi and molds. They are commonly present in ANY product that contains water. For this reason, oil-based skin care products and anhydrous (water free) skin care products, do not need preservatives.

However, creams, lotions and any other product where water is present, require adding a preservative.

If you do NOT use a preservative, or if you decide to believe the hype and try out a ‘natural’ preservative (such as grapefruit seed extracts), then you are putting yourself, and your skin, at RISK.

The only way you can avoid using preservatives is if you make your products FRESH every week, and store them in the refrigerator. This is what we, at BulkActives, do.

We have now started carrying three preservative systems. None are formaldehyde releasing, but they do contain other chemicals that have been getting a bad name (phenoxyethanol and the paraben family).

Let me repeat, if you make your products FRESH every week, and store them in the refrigerator, then, and ONLY then, can you avoid using preservatives.

In the last two articles we have covered the types of UV damage, and looked at the current range of common ingredients. With that out of the way, it is time to cover botanical sun care.

The simple truth is that, with the issues surrounding some of the chemical UV protection ingredients, you may not always want to lather up. When it comes to those days that you will spend hours out in the sun, the benefits outweigh the risks, and you should protect yourself from the suns damage.

For the days that you won’t be in the sun for long periods of time, though, it is better to use botanical products. Many botanical ingredients provide anti-oxidant protection, have anti-inflammatory properties, and have been shown to be able to repair the suns effects.

The advantage to using botanical sun products is that you aren’t covering your body in harmful chemicals. For the times that you are using the chemical products, a good botanical antioxidant can also provide protection against the damaging effects of the sunscreen itself.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredients

Studies are currently being done into botanical ingredients that provide UV protection. Some of the ingredients that I have listed do provide mild UVB protection, but they aren’t adequate for long term exposure. What you really want when you start to make a sun care product, from botanicals, are ingredients that provide antioxidant protection, and ingredients that help to repair the suns damage.

With that let’s look at some botanical ingredients that work well for sun care. The idea that some ingredients are better than others does hold true here, and I have tried to indicate the best ingredients for the job.

Botanical Antioxidants and Sun Care Ingredients

Conclusion – Protect Yourself

With the last three article we have covered UV damage, and how to protect yourself. You should now have a good knowledge of ingredients that can be harmful, and those that work for you. With this last article you also have a good guide to ingredients to use in your botanical sun care products.  When it comes to sun protection and to DIY skin care, choosing the right ingredients for the job is important to ensuring your skin’s health!

In our last article, we discussed the different types of UV radiation, and talked about their effects on your skin. With that knowledge in hand, it is now time to discuss protection from the sun’s harmful rays. In may seem like a simple thing, but when you begin to look closer, choosing the right sun protection can be quite difficult.

Protecting yourself from all of the sun’s damaging effects is important, but it isn’t just sunburn from UVB rays, or long-term damage from UVA, that you have to worry about. In almost every product there is at least one ingredient that is unstable, ineffective, or downright dangerous.  There used to be some concern that the use of certain UV filers led to an increase in melanoma. This is still a somewhat controversial issue, but it appears to have been debunked(3).

However, there is plenty of evidence that numerous chemical UV filters have the potential to increase cancer-causing free radicals (6).  Others may have possible estrogenic and other adverse effects, and another is actually systemically absorbed and excreted in urine at a much higher rate than any other sunscreen filter (4,5)

The topic of sun protection could (and actually has been) covered in an entire book. We will do our best to cover everything here.

First let’s cover the wrong way to do it. Although there is some controversy surrounding the issue, studies have shown that some chemical products actually promote free radical production, thus causing more damage than they prevent! In brief “photo-unstable sunscreens may damage your skin.”

The Wrong Way to Protect Against UV

The topic of how not to protect against UV damage could actually be quite a lengthy one. For the purpose of this article we will just discuss some of the more damaging effects of sunscreens. In particular the chemical sunscreens that we buy in the stores can have adverse effects to the skin.

Simply applying a sunscreen with ingredients like avobenzone, bemotrizinol, or benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) isn’t enough. In fact, when used by themselves, some studies show that they do as much harm as good. There are a number of problems with using a commercials sunscreen alone. These include:

• Not all ingredients are created equal: It is important to be aware that not all ingredients are created equal. Some UV blockers work better than others, some are more stable and last longer, and each protects against only a certain range of UV wavelengths.
• Some ingredients cause harm: There are ingredients that are easily absorbed by the skin, and can cause damage. Oxybenzone for example, which is a very common ingredient in commercial sunscreens, has been shown to promote the production of free radicals.
• Some stabilizers cause damage: With ingredients that degrade, stabilizers are often used to make them last longer. This can lead to other problems. For example, in a sunscreen that uses avobenzone as a UV blocker, it may have octocrylene as a stabilizer. This increases the risk of irritation and adds to the low-level toxicity of the product.
• Constant chemical use on the skin has shown negative effects: Some studies have shown that the repeated use of chemical UV blockers can have negative effects; especially in those that promote free radical production.
• Micronized Ingredients are being found to cause problems. With physical UV blocks (the ones that look white on your skin) some companies have created micronized version of these products to make them more cosmetically elegant. Studies are showing that the micronized particles of zinc or titanium can actually be absorbed by the skin, and cause further problems.

With that in mind, it begins to become apparent that simply lathering up with chemical sunscreens each time you go out in the sun isn’t enough. To protect yourself, the right way, requires some special considerations.

The Right Way: Protection Against UVA, UVB, and Antioxidant Protection

To ensure that you have the best protection actually requires choosing the right product for the job. How much time will you be spending in the sun? Is it a cloudy day, or will you be out in the dead-heat of the midday sun? When you begin to look at the answers to these questions you can begin to choose the right product(s) to protect yourself. You also need to consider photo-stability of ingredients, the cosmetic elegance of the product, and whether to choose physical or chemical blockers. You also need to ensure that along with UV filters, you always have an antioxidant to reduce the production of free radicals.

Photo-stability of UV filters

The first thing to consider is the photo-stability of the ingredients. A sunscreen filter is photo-stable if it does not degrade in sunlight. Photo-unstable filters may lose their protective effect. The rate of degradation can be reduced by stabilizers. However, photo-stabilizers may increase the risk of irritation.

In practice, the most photo-unstable filter is avobenzone. Octyl methoxycinnamate is also photo-unstable but it does not degrade quite as quickly. However, the combination of avobenzone and octinoxate degrades faster than either alone (1).  Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) is also photo-unstable.

List of Common UV filters and blockers

Chemical name: zinc oxide
UV spectrum: UVA-1 , UVA-2, UVB
type :physical
stability: stable
irritation : none
Pros: broad range protection, safe, anti-irritant
cons: white residue

Chemical name: titanium dioxide
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVB
type: physical
stability: unstable
irritation: none
Pros: none
cons: insufficient protection against UVA-2, may generate free radicals, white residue

Chemical name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid  (ensulizole
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: may stabilize other chemicals, water soluble in salt form
cons: No UVA protection

Chemical name: homosalate
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: low
Pros: none
cons: No UVA protection, Poor range of UVB protection

Chemical name: octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate)
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable (partially stabilized by bemotrizinol/ Tinosorb M)
irritation: potential high risk
Pros: none
cons: risk of possible estrogenic and other adverse effects

Chemical name: octyl salicylate (octisalate)
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: low
Pros: none
cons: Poor range of  UVB  protection

Chemical name: octocrylene
UV spectrum: UVB, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: very stable,sStabilizes other UV filters
irritation: low
Pros: very stable, stabilizes other UV filters
cons: weak, cannot be used alone

Chemical name: Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone)
UV spectrum: UVB, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: high risk
Pros: none
cons: weak, cannot be used alone, promotes generation of free radicals, systemically absorbed and excreted in urine at a much higher rate than other sunscreen filters.

Chemical name: Avobenzone ( butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 51)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: unstable (Octocrylene, increases stability. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reduce stability)
irritation: low
Pros: Full UVA protection
cons: loses effectiveness over time,             may produce low-level toxicity with long-term use

Chemical name: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor , 4-MBC, 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene) bornan-2-one , 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: potential high risk
Pros: Stabilizes Avobenzone
cons:risk of possible estrogenic and other adverse effects, not approved in the USA

Chemical name: Ecamsule/terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid  (Mexoryl SX and XL)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: Ecamsule is acidic, the alkaline base used for neutralizing may cause irritation for some people.
cons: Full UVA protection, photo-stable, expensive -patented by L’Oreal

Chemical name: Bisoctrizole/methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol  (Tinosorb M, S)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2, UVB
type: Chemical and Physical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: Full UVA protection, photo-stable,pPartially stabilizes octinoxate
cons: Not approved in the USA

Stabilized Avobenzone

Due to the stability issues of avobenzone companies developed stabilized formulations.

Neutrogena Sunblock, Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF uses Helioplex (a formulation containing avobenzone and oxybenzone). Banana Boat offers ‘AvoTriplex’, a formulation containg: avobenzone 3% , homosalate 8.78% , octinoxate 5% , octisalate 5% , octocrylene 2.5% , and oxybenzone 5%.

The problem with these products is the use of oxybenzone, which is a high-risk product.

European UVA filters

Until recently the only UVA filter available in the USA was Avobenzone. Sun-savvy consumers would therefore buy and import their sun protection products from abroad.  The most popular of these products was L’Oreal La Roche-Posay, which is formulated with Mexoryl SX and XL

In 2006 the FDA approved the sales of sun protection product containing Mexoryl SX and XL. It is now possible to buy L’Oreal La Roche-Posay products, as well as cheaper products made by their umbrella companies (Vichy Capital Soleil, L’Oreal Solar Expertise and Garnier Ambre Solaire).

Tinosorb (S and M) is an amazing hybrid filter and we will discuss it more, later in this article. At the time of this writing it is still not approved by the FDA. Those who are seriously committed to maintaining excellent skin health are still forced to import this product from the European Union or Canada.

Cosmetic elegance

Next we need to consider the cosmetic elegance of the sun screen. This is a concern to many.

Due to the nature of the UV filters, it is actually not easy to manufacture and effective UVA/UVB sun protection products which are also cosmetically elegant.  High oil content and excessive alcohol use are a problem for those with sensitive skin.  Excessive shininess (as opposed to the preferred matt look) and balling (when the product ends up forming little ‘balls’) are also a problem for those who have to look presentable during the day.

Physical and Chemical UV Protection

When prolonged exposure to the sun is planned, the best UV protection is offered by new the UV filters Mexoryl SX and XL. These new filters offer outstanding protection against the entire UVA range, they are photo-stable, non-irritating and have no reported toxicity concerns.

Physical protection (UV blocking) used to be only available with Zinc Oxide and Titanium dioxide.  Although Zinc Oxide has a good safety profile, there are numerous concerns about Titanium dioxide. However, non-micronized zinc keeps out both UVA, and UVB rays and is a good alternative for those with extremely sensitive skin.

With the absence of easily absorbed chemicals there isn’t a lot of damage that can be done by the sunscreen itself. The problem with these particular products is that they leave the skin white, which may not always be the look you want for that day on the beach.

It is worth noting that some products contain Zinc Oxide with the chemical Avobenzone, this combination should really be avoided as the already unstable Avobenzone can be degraded even more by Zinc Oxide.

An excellent alternative to the purely physical blockers is the new hybrid (chemical and physical blocker) Tinosorb (S and M). This insoluble powder is usually added to the water phase of a product, and it acts as both a chemical UVA filter AND a UVA reflector. In addition it partially stabilizes the commonly used UVB filter Octinoxate.

When a more cosmetically elegant sunscreen is required, a chemical sunscreen can be used with the antioxidant. What is important to ensure is that you choose one with ingredients that don’t generally have harmful effects, and that protect from both UVA and UVB rays. It is also quite important to understand that with some ingredients there isn’t a lot of studies that look at the long term effects or repeated use. For this reason chemical sunscreens should not be over used.

Anti-Oxidant Protection to Prevent Free Radical Production

Whenever you go plan to expose yourself to the sun (and even when you aren’t using a sunscreen) you should be using an antioxidant. The process is known as layering, and the antioxidant always goes on first. This works to counter the free radical production that comes both from sun exposure, and from the use of chemical UV blockers.

What do I use?

Sun protection for my face, daily use during the summer:

Last year I was using Anthelios XL Fluide Extreme from La Roche-Posay line. However, with the release of the tinosorbs I was ready for a change, so this year I am trying RoC Minesol protect SPF 60 spray-on .  I am not too happy with the formulation, although it is an elegant product, and the next sunscreen I will try is one of the Bioderma ones, also with the Tinysorbs.

I will write another post soon, with a detailed analysis of these sunscreens, and others!

All over body protection for when I am at the beach.

I used to use Ultra Sunscreen SPF 30+ made by the Australian Cancer Council. I especially loved their spray on, which was quick and effective on the beach. However, since learning more about sun protection I realized that this is really quite a bad formulation. In fact, I have given up on body sunscreens all together.

Most of my sun exposure occurs when I am windsurfing, sailing, kayaking or snorkeling.  I have had some nasty burns, and I have too many moles on my body. So, now I use a nice pair of UV protection swim shirts (SPF 50), and swim tights.  It may look silly, but I love being active on the beach and on the water, and there is no point taking risks.

Botanical Protection From UV

For the days when only a short time will be spent in the sun (quick trip to work, working in a windowless office), botanical protection may be a good choice. An effective antioxidant serum can be made using ingredients that have been proven to prevent UVB damage, reduce free radical activity and even reverse sun damage.  Using natural ingredients ensures that you’re not exposing your body to chemicals, and that you still have basic protection from the sun.

No matter what, a good antioxidant serum is essential to maintaining skin health, and should always be layered under your chemical or physical sun protection product. This will actually be the topic of the next article in this series of 3 on sun protection.

References

1.  Maier H, Schauberger G, Brunnhofer K, HoÈnigsmann H. Change of Ultraviolet Absorbance of Sunscreens by Exposureto Solar-Simulated Radiation. Division of Special and Environmental Dermatology, University of Vienna Medical School, Vienna, Austria; Institute of Medical Physics and Biostatistics, University of Veterinary Medicine Vienna, Vienna, Austria; Austrian Consumers’ Association, Vienna, Austria

2. Dr. G. Todorov. Sun Blocks/Sun Screens – an  online resource. Various pages used in researching chemical skin care ingredients. Accessed July 20, 2008 from http://www.smartskincare.com/skinprotection/sunblocks/

3.  Sunscreen use and the risk for melanoma: a quantitative review. Dennis LK, Beane Freeman LE, VanBeek MJ. College of Public Health and College of Medicine, University of Iowa, Iowa City, Iowa 52242, USA. leslie-dennis@uiowa.edu

4. mSarveiya V, Risk S, Benson HA. Liquid chromatographic assay for common sunscreen agents: application to in vivo assessment of skin penetration and systemic absorption in human volunteers. Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Man., Canada.

5.   Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans.

6.  Schallreuter KU, Wood JM, Farwell DW, Moore J, Edwards HG. Oxybenzone oxidation following solar irradiation of skin: photoprotection versus antioxidant inactivation. Department of Dermatology, University of Hamburg, Germany.

7.    Negishi, K; Higashi, S; Nakamura, T; Otsuka, C; Watanbe , M; Negishi, T. (2007) Oxidative DNA Damage Induced by 364-nm UVA Laser in Yeast Cells. Originally published by the Japanese Environmental Mutagen Society. Accessed online July 16th 2008 from http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jemsge/28/2/74/_pdf

8.   Brannon, Heather MD. (March 23, 2008). Effects of Sun on the Skin: Cellular Skin Changes Caused by UV Radiation. Article hosted on about.com. Accessed July 16th, 2008 from http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/suneffect.htm

9.   Hugget, J. (June 28, 2005) Less Than Full Protection: Most Sunscreens Do Only Half the Job, Blocking Unsafe UVB Rays But Not Skin-Damaging UVA. Can We Get Better Cover. Washington Post. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/06/27/AR2005062701099.html

10. Eldich, R Dr. and Various other Authors (2004) Photoprotection by Sunscreens with Topical Antioxidants and Systemic Antioxidants to Reduce Sun Exposure.  Journal of Long-Term Effects of Medical Implants. Begal House Inc. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://www.pacificcenterplasticsurgery.com/articles/Photoprotection-by-Sunscreens.pdf

11.  Reinheckel, Thomas,  Bohne, Marisela,  Halangk, Walter,  Augustin, Wolfgang,  Gollnick, Harald. Evaluation of UVA-mediated oxidative damage to proteins and lipids in extracorporeal photoimmunotherapy. A Study hosted on findarticles.com Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3931/is_199905/ai_n8838478

12. Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center, no author listed. Two Cancer Studies: Tomatoes, Green Tea, and Cancer. Originally published in the P&S Journal: Fall 1997, Vol.17, No.3 Research Reports. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://cpmcnet.columbia.edu/news/journal/journal-o/archives/jour_v17n03_0009.html

13. MakeupAlley, no author listed. List of UVA-Protective Sunscreens. Accessed July 20th 2008 from http://www.makeupalley.com/user/notepad/sunscreens

14. MakeupAlley, no author listed. Information and frequently asked questions about sunscreen. Accessed July 20th 2008 from http://makeupalley.com/account/vn.asp?u=sunscreenFAQ

When it comes to skin care, the products you choose are important. Just because a product advertises that it is anti-aging, or anti-inflammatory, doesn’t mean that it will work. In fact, with most commercially made products, the chemicals they use in making them work to reverse the positive effects that they could have had.

That store bought product likely includes detergents, chemical fragrances, dyes, and other toxic substances.  Your skin absorbs whatever you put on it. Using store-bought skin creams, and cleansers, simply put – can be a bad idea.

Even worse, many skin care product manufacturers work on the idea of label value.  By putting a minimum amount of the active skin care ingredients in their product, they can list it on their label.  The consumer then ends up buying an overpriced beauty product that has absolutely no affect on the skin.

Luckily there is a better way!

By making your own skin care products, also known as DIY skin care, the consumer now has the ability to tailor make a good product at a fair price.

Many people hold onto the idea that the best health products are naturally made. The same is true with skin care; choosing to make your own products is healthier.  It also allows you more freedom in choosing the right ingredients for the job.

There are actually many reasons why homemade products are better than their commercially made alternatives. Firstly you get the freedom to choose what products you put on your skin, and you get to rest assured that you know what you’re using. Most commercial products use long or invented names for common ingredients, or ingredients are included at ‘label value’ (just enough so that they can be listed on the label, but not enough to actually do anything useful). There are also other reasons: it will save you money, and it’s very rewarding to know that the anti-aging cream that you made actually worked!

The main reason that most people choose this route though, is the versatility if gives them. With homemade skin care products you can use recipes that are specifically made to target a certain type of problem.

Anti-Aging DIY Skin Care

One reason people seek out information and recipes for skin care, is for anti-aging products. There are literally thousands of products out there that claim to be wrinkle tightening, or wrinkle relaxing. Very few of them actually work, and the ones that do will likely cost you hundreds of dollars for a small amount.

With homemade skin care, you can choose ingredients like DMA bitartrate, L-ascorbic acid, CoQ10, Idebenone, or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (among others). All which are clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, or have other anti aging qualities. There are also many ingredients that are meant for UV damage protection, or UV damage repair, which can reduce the aging of the skin in the first place.

Anti-Inflammatory DIY Skin Care

The next reason to make your own skin care products is for anti-inflammatory treatments. Store bought products, of this type, often include steroids in their ingredients. Steroids can  have many other adverse effects.

Ginkgo Biloba, Green Tea EGCG, Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins are just a few of the ingredients that you can use to take a holistic approach to anti-inflammatory cream.

Home Made Antioxidants

The term antioxidant is all the rage in health circles lately. As we learn more about oxidization, free radicals, and their effects on our health antioxidants have become an important part of health in general.

When you choose to make your own skin care products you can choose from scientifically proven anti-oxidants such as silymarin, Pine bark Proanthocyanidins, or Pomegranate extract; all of which have many other benefits to your skin.

Anti-Acne DIY Skin Care

Another area where homemade skin care products are better is for acne prevention. Commercially made acne products include very harsh chemicals, such as Benzyl Peroxide, which is a proven carcinogenic substance.

When you choose to make your own skin care products acne you can use ingredients such as salicylic acid, or White Willow Bark. Both of which provide sebum control, and get to acne at its source!

Scar Care

The last area that I will discuss in this article is scar care. Commercially made products for this purpose often include chemicals that aren’t good for your skin at all.

With DIY skin care you can use ingredients like Centella asiatica. This particular substance has been clinically tested for stretch mark reduction, scar care, and has wound healing properties. There are also other natural products that have been tested for the same purpose (with very good results).

The truth of the matter is that along with all of the health benefits, making your own skin care products is rewarding, and it will save you a lot of money. When you’re ready to get started, take a look at our skin care recipes. There you’ll find all the instructions you need to get started with DIY skin care!

Made in China – Getting to the Heart of the Matter

After getting a couple of emails about products manufactured in China, I wanted to take the time to write about this hot topic a little bit. In our industry the simple truth is that some of our products can’t be sourced from anywhere else, in fact in every industry there is likely to be an element of Chinese manufacturing involved.

Unlike our biggest competitor who will adamantly avoid this topic , I have long taken the stance that honesty is the best policy.

We do openly state where our products are sourced from, and we have no problem sharing the truth. Each of our ingredient-products comes with a COA (certificate of analysis) that clearly states where the source materials came from, and what percentages of materials make up the finished ingredient product.

Even with that though, let’s take a little time to get to the heart of the matter. Whether you support China as a country or not, the simple fact remains that it isn’t likely that you can live without Chinese-manufactured goods in your home. Even the products that don’t state “Made in China”, very likely do contain Chinese-made ingredients or parts.

China as an Exporter

The first thing that we should note is that China is one of the world’s largest exporters. According to the US-China Business Council (USCBC), in 2007 China exported 1.218 trillion dollars worth of goods to the world[i]. Think about that number for a moment – that’s trillions of dollars!

According to the World Trade organization that number puts China in second place for international exports. They have an 8.8% share of the total export business in the world, and they are now second only to Germany with the US following closely behind as the 3rd largest exporter[ii].

In other words, China has taken its foothold in the world as an exporter, and no matter where you live; there are Chinese-manufactured goods in a store near you.

Food and Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Where things begin to get interesting is when you look at the types of products that China exports. Of course their biggest exports are machinery, power generation equipment, medical equipment, and other completely-manufactured goods. Ranking 8th on the list of exports though is inorganic and organic chemicals.

Let’s look closer at this one area, since the biggest controversy surrounding China’s exports at the moment was due to a case of adding melamine to milk powder and pet foods to increase the apparent protein content in those products.

It should be noted that those responsible for these scandals have been sentenced to death[iii], the Chinese government does not easily accept anything that might damage its image as a reliable source of manufacturing and export.

However, it should also be taken note of that similar types of scandals happen all over the world.

If you want a recent example of problems like this occurring within other countries, see the current Peanut recall in the US [iv]

On Monday February 9th, FBI agents raided The Peanut Corporation of America plant in Blakely, Georgia. This US company is accused of knowingly shipping salmonella tainted products now linked to nearly 600 illnesses, including eight deaths, in 43 US states. The Food and Drug Administration’s Office of Criminal Investigations launched a probe of the company on January 30. [v]

Getting back to it, when it comes to food and pharmaceuticals, China is the largest manufacturer of chemical ingredients in the world. They produce more ingredient products than any other country in the world.

Even if that drug or food manufacturer is based in the US or in Europe, the ingredients that go into those products very likely came from China. This is especially true when it comes to vitamins that are put into the foods we eat and products we use.

To provide an example, according to a study done by the company Beijing Orientbit Technology Co., Ltd: “every year about 90 per cent of vitamin C used by US pharmaceutical, supplement and drink manufacturers is sourced from China”[vi]

Since vitamin C is a common ingredient in many food and pharmaceutical products, if you eat, or take medicines or supplements, it’s very likely that you’re ingesting Chinese-manufactured products. I could further this example if I wanted to get into vitamins like vitamin: A, E, B2, B5, B12, etc.

The point is that it isn’t very likely that you can go through your day without ingesting something that was manufactured in China. This brings us to the topic I want to discuss, China and the beauty industry.

China and the Beauty Industry

We already know that China is one of the leading manufacturers for chemical and organic ingredients. In our industry specifically, these ingredients make up the larger portion of what is used to make skin care and other beauty-related products.

It isn’t just the ingredients that you purchase to make your own products (those which we sell), it’s the products that go into your favorite skin cream, that makeup you bought last week, and even that shampoo that you use to wash your hair.

Yes, that bottle may state “Made in the USA”, but that label just refers to the manufacturing process, not to the ingredients that went into the product.

The only way to find out where the ingredients came from is to phone the manufacturer and ask them.

In other words, for every item of makeup in your make-up-kit, for every facial cleanser, cream, or body wash you buy, if you want to know where the source ingredients came from you better get on the phone. Here’s the other part:

They aren’t required to tell you where they get the ingredients from!

The Bottom Line

What am I getting at here, what is my point?

Just that avoiding products made in China would be difficult at best, and more likely impossible. Even if you make a point of avoiding every label that states “Made in China”, in the food we eat, the medicines you take, and the products you use it’s very likely that at least some portion of the source material came from China.

As it applies to us at BulkActives, I am going to continue what I normally do. I may not like China’s politics or their political stances. In fact I don’t!

But, trying to not sell ingredients that include at least a portion of Chinese-sourced materials would be near impossible. The products we sell are quality controlled when they are imported by our distributors, and we do include a COA with every product we sell.

Yes, some of our products include Chinese source materials. But then, so do many other products you use and ingest every day. When you take the time to get to the heart of the matter, it becomes apparent that for most of us “Made in China” is impossible to avoid.

Those consumers who still insist that they would “never put anything made in China on their face” ( a direct quote from one email I received), may be interested in reading the following articles:

http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/07315/832952-85.stm

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19508453/

In conclusion, If you do not wish to buy from us because our product are from China, then please make sure you get a written and public assurance from our competitors, clarifying exactly in which country their raw materials are grown, processed, and manufactured.

A refusal to supply this info, either via email or on a forum, can only be an indication that your supplier is unwilling to acknowledge that they too are buying and selling “made in China” products.

References:

[i] USCBC’s Website Page: US-China Trade Statistics and China’s World Trade Statistics, no author listed. Accessed January 30, 2009 from www.uschina.org/statistics/tradetable.html

[ii] World Trade Organization, Press Release WTO: developing, transition economies cushion trade slowdown. Accessed January 30, 2009 from , www.wto.org/english/news_e/pres08_e/pr520_e.htm see Appendix Table 4 Merchandise trade: leading exporters and importers, 2007

[iii] BBC News Story, Chinese milk scam duo face death, Accessed January 30, 2009 from news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7843972.stm

[iv] US Food and Drug Administration Recall of Peanut-Containing Products: Salmonella Typhimurium, no author listed. Accessed January 31, 2009 from www.fda.gov/oc/opacom/hottopics/salmonellatyph.html

[v] FBI raids peanut butter plant suspected in outbreak, no author listed. Accessed February 19, 2009 from http://edition.cnn.com/2009/CRIME/02/10/peanut.butter.raid/

[vi] The Free Library, Article: Price of vitamin C fluctuated considerably in 2007, by Ba Yanfeng, Beijing Orientbit Technology Co., Ltd. Accessed on January 31, 2009 from: www.thefreelibrary.com/Price+of+vitamin+C+fluctuated+considerably+in+2007.-a0176371912