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Posts Tagged ‘cosmetics’

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

There has been some confusion about the difference between Ascorbyl Tretaisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

There is no difference!

Ascorbyl Tretaisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate are the same product with a different name.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a colorless to pale yellow liquid.  Its CAS number is 183476-82-6 (CAS# 183476-82-6). Its INCI name is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) and its chemical name is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Chem. Name: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate).

What is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C ester which has anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting lipid peroxidation. Topical use can mitigate the damaging effects of UV exposure. Studies have shown it to stimulate collagen production as well as clarifying and brightening the skin by inhibiting melanogenesis (the production of pigment) thereby promoting a more even skin tone. Unlike ascorbic acid, it will not exfoliate or irritate skin.

How do I use Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is one of the easiest skin care actives to use in DIY skin care.  It can be added to any cream or lotion, and it is also the key ingredient in an Anhydrous C product.  I wrote a previous post about Anhydrous C  ( l-ascorbic acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in a silicone base) here: http://bulkactives.com/blog/index.php/2009/11/anhydrous-c-for-skin-care-absorption-of-l-ascorbic-in-a-silicone-base/

Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) high purity solvent, carrier and penetration enhancer

Sunday, January 17th, 2010

Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is a high purity solvent and carrier which offers a safe, effective delivery enhancement mechanism for active ingredients in personal care products. Sunless tanners, facial and eye-zone treatments, skin serums, anti-acne formulations and make-up removers are just some of the products whose performance can be improved with the use of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) in formulation. In addition to improving performance, its use as an epidermal penetration enhancer can allow formulators to reduce the amount of actives required to achieve effects, resulting in reduced formulation costs, and lower skin irritation with aggressive active ingredients.

Active ingredients for skin care formulations are only as effective as the delivery system. The more efficient the delivery system, the more likely it is that the active ingredient will perform as intended. Consider all of the benefits made possible by Dimethyl Isosorbide delivery enhancer, a safe carrier ingredient proven to place active ingredients where they are needed most on skin. A water-white liquid with excellent solvent properties,Dimethyl Isosorbide offers formulators the option to boost the penetration of actives in the epidermis layer of skin, enabling targeted delivery for products such as self-tanners, anti-acne treatments and more.

Consumers of skin care products will notice the difference in products formulated with a delivery enhancement agent. Test results show that Dimethyl Isosorbide contributes to fast color development of sunless tanner, with less streaking and longer lasting tan as compared with self-tanner products without the carrier ingredient. In other specialty products, such as eye-zone treatments, skin serums, scalp treatments, Dimethyl Isosorbide may be used to enhance skin penetration. The unique solvency properties of Dimethyl Isosorbide boosts performance of formulations such as make-up removers.

The skin care formulators’ performance booster

Ask consumers why they use a skin care product and chances are good they will purchase one they perceive to be effective. Formulators can improve the odds that an active ingredient will work to the benefit of the consumer in products designed for skin treatment. With Dimethyl Isosorbide, the formulator can enhance the delivery of active ingredients without having to add more active. Effective delivery of actives such as salicylic acid, Vitamin C, lactic acid, hydrocortisone and hyaluronic acid can even reduce the active ingredient concentration requirement, serving to reduce the formulation cost of finished products.

Other benefits of Dimethyl Isosorbide:

  • Dimethyl Isosorbide offers enhanced penetration of actives to the epidermis, enabling targeted delivery.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide provides a lower level of skin irritation with a reduction in the required concentration level of aggressive actives.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide gives improved formulation shelf stability, including those susceptible to hydrolysis and transesterfication.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide has miscibility with most organic solvents and non-ionic surfactants.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide allows incorporation within many product forms, including clear gels.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide has a long history of safe usage.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide has the ability to transport water soluble actives into skin, without recrystallization of the active.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide has the ability to produce formulations with standard equipment, without the need for flammable materials handling.

Buy Arlasolve DMI / Dimethyl Isosorbide

Anhydrous C for skin care. Absorption of L-ascorbic in a silicone base

Monday, November 23rd, 2009

Recent posts on various DIY skin care forums have discussed the issue of the penetration of L-ascorbic acid suspended in a silicone base into the skin.

More precisely, a few posters have started promoting the idea that L-ascorbic acid cannot penetrate into the skin, because silicone forms a barrier on the skin.

I would like to address this issue in more detail.

Background: Stable L-ascorbic acid products for skin care

The DIY skin care community has long struggled with the formulation of a stable L-ascorbic acid skin care product. In fact, professional skin care companies and formulators have also struggled with the same problem.

Some attempts have been made by professionals to develop a stable vitamin C skin care product.  The best example of this is the Skinceuticals C+E+Ferulic product.  This is based on the 2006 study “Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinby Pinnel and others.

This study claimed that

Ferulic acid is a potent ubiquitous plant antioxidant. Its incorporation into a topical solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% tocopherol improved chemical stability of the vitamins (C+E) and doubled photoprotection to solar-simulated irradiation of skin from 4-fold to approximately 8-fold as measured by both erythema and sunburn cell formation.” http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v125/n4/full/5603565a.html

However, consumers have found that skinceuticals C E ferulic product is often orange tinted.  This color usually indicates that the L ascorbic acid has oxidized, thus making it pro-oxidant.  So, even though Ferulic acid may stabilize l ascorbic acid in the lab, in practicality there appear to be some serious issues that have not been addressed.

DIY skin care formulators are able to work around this.  By making a CE Ferulic product at home, it is possible to have a fresh supply every week, thus reducing (but not eliminating) the amount of vitamin C oxidization.

Solution: The Fitzpatrick study

Another study of interest is the 2002 “Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage” by Fitzpatrick.

Even though this study predates the CE+Ferulic study, it did not start getting discussed on the DIY skin care forums until quite recently.

Fitzpatrick’s method was as follows:

Ten patients having facial photodamage were recruited for a double-blind pilot study of a newly formulated vitamin C complex having 10% ascorbic acid, a water soluble acid, and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid soluble analog.

 

Both of these are combined in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, which acts as a ‘dermal patch,’ releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog rapidly. The active vitamin C complex was applied to one side of the face and the inactive placebo base was applied to the opposite side of the face once a day.” http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=pubmed&cmd=Retrieve&dopt=AbstractPlus&list_uids=11896774&query_hl=7&itool=pubmed_ExternalLink

Now, this is where a very few posters start having some issues.  The base used is an anhydrous silicone gel, and the doubt seems to be in the fact that a very few posters believe that silicone forms a barrier and therefore hinders the absorption of active ingredients.

However, let’s look at the next part of Fitzpatrick’s study:

Biopsies showed increased Grenz zone collagen, as well as increased staining for mRNA for type I collagen. This formulation of vitamin C results in clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling when used topically for 12 weeks. This clinical improvement correlates with biopsy evidence of new collagen formation.

Now, if silicone prevents the absorption of active ingredients, than there would not have been an increase collagen.

So, this should put to rest the claims that using silicone as a base prevents the absorption of active ingredients.

Flawed study

There is one troubling aspect about the Fitzpatrick study.  The study did not test the use of each key ingredient separately.

The two key ingredients in the anhydrous C product are L-ascorbic acid (which is water soluble), and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (also known as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate ) which is oil soluble.

So, even though the study shows that the combination the two active ingredients in a silicone base led to an increase of collagen, we do not know if this was caused by the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, the Vitamin C, or the combination of the two.

This brings us back full circle to the original problem! We do not know which active is responsible for the increase in collagen. So it is possible to claim that the L-ascorbic acid is in fact not absorbed by the skin, and that the increase of collagen is cause by the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

The blame for this confusion can be put purely with Fitzpatrick. It seems a simple matter to have tested the activity of both l-ascorbic and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate in anhydrous silicone, separately. However, he chose not to do this.

So, we remain with his original statement.

Both of these are combined in an anhydrous polysilicone gel base, which acts as a ‘dermal patch,’ releasing the water soluble acid slowly and the lipid soluble analog rapidly.”

 

To me the dermal patch idea makes sense, and I personally put more trust in this than the doubt caused by a very few (but very ‘vocal’) posters on skin care forums.

In the end the choice is yours.

I will continue to use the anhydrous C product as my number one weapon in anti aging skin care.  Why? Because no matter which active did the job, somehow this product has improved my skin and that is ultimately what I want.

http://www.bulkactives.com/siliconegel.htm

http://www.bulkactives.com/ascorbicacid.htm

http://www.bulkactives.com/ascorbyltetraisopalmitate.htm

Solvent for Ferulic Acid: non-denatured Ethanol or denatured alcohol?

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

ethanolI recently read a post on another forum, and was slightly annoyed that an email I wrote about one of my recipes was either not understood or quoted out of context, or maybe I was not clear enough in my answer.

So, let me explain.

Ferulic acid is soluble in an alcohol.

I know that some people claim they have dissolved it in water of glycerin, but I wonder if they confuse ‘well dispersed’ with ‘dissolved’. There is a big difference, but because Ferulic acid is such a very fine powder it may be hard to physically tell the difference.

Now, what alcohols are suitable for dissolving Ferulic acid?

In my recipe I suggest ethanol or Propylene Glycol. My recipe does not suggest denatured alcohol, and I also do not suggest that people buy this.

There is a difference between ethanol and denatured alcohol.

“Ethanol, is also called ethyl alcohol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, or drinking alcohol.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol

“Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has additives to make it toxic, unpalatable, or otherwise undrinkable. In some cases it is also dyed.” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

My recipe clearly states to use ethanol. One customer wrote that she bought ethanol, and got a bottle of denatured alcohol. This is an issue between her and the supplier she used. I suggested that she contact her supplier to verify what it was she actually ordered and received.

It may be possible to buy NON-denatured  ethanol where you live. However, in some countries this product is not available. In the USA people could buy Everclear (if available in your state), or you can simply use a high alcohol content VODKA.

Regarding the use of alcohols in skin care products.

I am well aware that a particular ‘scientific’ supplier makes a big deal out of this.

On their product pages she clearly states the solubility of her powder IF it is water or oil soluble.

If it is not, then there is no solubility info displayed, but they then claim that “The powder will not dissolve immediately, but will release components slowly into the cream/lotion.”

I think that this is a ridiculous claim to make, but it most definitely does help sell all their powders.

So, rant over.everclear

In short, if you want to use actives that are alcohol soluble then use NON-denatured alcohol (  ethanol), Everclear, or vodka. DO not use denatured alcohol.

If you don’t want to use any alcohol in your skin care products, then do not buy powders that only dissolve in alcohol.

If you want to try alternative solvents, like glycerin, please make sure that the powder has actually dissolved, not just well-dispersed.

Preservatives in skin care

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

Preservatives are chemicals that kill bacteria, fungi and molds. They are commonly present in ANY product that contains water. For this reason, oil-based skin care products and anhydrous (water free) skin care products, do not need preservatives.

However, creams, lotions and any other product where water is present, require adding a preservative.

If you do NOT use a preservative, or if you decide to believe the hype and try out a ‘natural’ preservative (such as grapefruit seed extracts), then you are putting yourself, and your skin, at RISK.

The only way you can avoid using preservatives is if you make your products FRESH every week, and store them in the refrigerator. This is what we, at BulkActives, do.

We have now started carrying three preservative systems. None are formaldehyde releasing, but they do contain other chemicals that have been getting a bad name (phenoxyethanol and the paraben family).

Let me repeat, if you make your products FRESH every week, and store them in the refrigerator, then, and ONLY then, can you avoid using preservatives.

Silymarin as an anti-inflammatory and inhibitor of UV-induced skin damage

Saturday, March 7th, 2009

silymarinIt is a well-known fact of life that exposure to UV light, especially the UVA component, festers skin disorders like melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Superficial remedies such as sunscreens are effective only to a limited extent. This realization has led to investigation of new methods to protect the skin from photo-damaging effects of solar UV radiation, or “photo-carcinogenesis” as it is called. Recent years have seen considerable interest in identifying naturally-occurring botanicals with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and which exhibit anti-carcinogenic and anti-mutagenic functionality.

It is in this light that the medicinal benefits of milk thistle have been a subject of intense research by scientists. Though its value as a medicine for a host of health conditions, including dermatological, has been known for over 2,000 years, it is only now that science has seriously begun looking at the role played by milk thistle and “Silymarin”, its active compound, in treating skin damage.

In an experiment conducted at Palacky University in Czechoslovakia (1), researchers studied the impact of two components of Silybum marianum (technical name for milk thistle) as both a preventative as well as treatment intervention for skin damage against UVA exposure. Their findings were positive, in that it was discovered that these two components – collectively known as “flavonolignans” – perform a host of functions, such as increasing the viability of keratinocytes in irradiated cells, inhibiting the production of ROS, stopping further depletion of ATP and GSH taking place at intracellular level, and halting the peroxidation of membrane lipids. Further, the activation of caspases-3 process that UVA exposure initiates gets halted and reversed when the two components of Silybum marianum are applied. The overall picture that emerges, therefore, is that Silybum marianum is a good candidate to be considered for inhibiting UV damage.

An interesting experiment conducted on mice at the University of Alabama in Birmingham has been reported in the March-April 2008 issue of Photochem Photobiology journal (2). Two observations from this research are of special relevance to us here. One, it is the CD11b+ cells, which are the major source of oxidative stress in UV-irradiated skin, were inhibited by Silymarin. The flavonoid also suppresses the infiltration of leukocytes that UV exposure had induced. The second important observation is that Silymarin not only halts UV damage, it also acts as a preventive measure. Another researcher has gone one step ahead with the identification of yet another reversal that this chemical performs to UV action: it reduces the volume of H2O2-producing and cytokine interleukin-10 producing cells, both of whose generation is activated by UV (6).

Nearly the same conclusion has been arrived at by researchers working in the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Colorado (3). Their research has shown a positive effect of Silibinin on the repair of UVB-induced DNA damage. Another experiment conducted at the Department of Dermatology of the University of Alabama has observed the inhibition affect that the flavonoid has on tumor promoters such as 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate, mezerein, benzoyal peroxide and okadaic acid (4).

Topical application of Silibinin prior to, or immediately after, UV irradiation has been found to inhibit thymine dimer positive cell generation that UV induces in the epidermis (5). This research has also shown that terminal sunburn cell formation that is again induced by UV is inhibited too, when Silibinin is applied.

A strong case for Silymarin being a very effective agent in inhibiting and reversing carcinogen and tumor-promoter-induced cancers is made by two independent researches. In both the experiments (7), (8), it has been reported that Silibinin inhibits cancer-causing cells (ERK1/2 activation) and promotes benign cells (JNK1/2, p38), making it an effective cancer-intervention agent for cancer.

A paper published in the journal “Cancer Research” details yet another in-depth investigation carried out on the efficacy of Silymarin as a possible intervention agent against Stage I and Stage II tumors (9). The paper reports that the milk thistle extract has been found to be especially useful in Stage I tumor suppression, and inhibits edema, hyperplasia, proliferation index and oxidant state which take place due to UV irradiation. This same result has been arrived by an independent group of researchers, who used a different chemical to induce skin edema in mice (10).

From the above researches being conducted around the world, it may safely be concluded that Silymarin is proving to be very effective in inhibiting UV-induced skin damage, and the day may not be far when milk thistle becomes one of the major ingredients in sunscreen lotions.

References

Svobodová A, Zdarilová A, Walterová D, and Vostálová J. Flavonolignans from Silybum marianum moderate UVA-induced oxidative damage to HaCaT keratinocytes. J Dermatol Sci. 2007 Dec;48(3):213-24. Epub 2007 Aug 3.

Katiyar SK, Meleth S, and Sharma SD. Silymarin, a flavonoid from milk thistle (Silybum marianum L.) inhibits UV-induced oxidative stress through targeting infiltrating CD11b+ cells in mouse skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):266-71. Epub 2007 Nov 28.

Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Mechanisms and preclinical efficacy of silibinin in preventing skin cancer. Eur J Cancer. 2005 Sep;41(13):1969-79.

Katiyar SK. Silymarin and skin cancer prevention: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. Int J Oncol. 2005 Jan;26(1):169-76.

Dhanalakshmi S, Mallikarjuna GU, Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Silibinin prevents ultraviolet radiation-caused skin damages in SKH-1 hairless mice via a decrease in thymine dimer positive cells and an up-regulation of p53-p21/Cip1 in epidermis. Carcinogenesis. 2004 Aug;25(8):1459-65. Epub 2004 Mar 19.

Katiyar SK. Treatment of Silymarin, a plant flavonoid, prevents ultraviolet light-induced immune suppression and oxidative stress in mouse skin. Int J Oncol. 2002 Dec;21(6):1213-22.

Singh RP, Tyagi AK, Zhao J, and Agarwal R. Silymarin inhibits growth and causes regression of established skin tumors in SENCAR mice via modulation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and induction of apoptosis. Carcinogenesis. 2002 Mar;23(3):499-510.

Jifu Zhao, Moushumi Lahiri-Chatterjee, Yogesh Sharma and Rajesh Agarwal. Inhibitory effect of a flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin on benzoyl peroxide-induced tumor promotion, oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in SENCAR mouse skin. Carcinogenesis, Vol. 21, No. 4, 811-816, April 2000.

Lahiri-Chatterjee M, Katiyar SK, Mohan RR, and Agarwal R. A flavonoid antioxidant, Silymarin, affords exceptionally high protection against tumor promotion in the SENCAR mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Cancer Res. 1999 Feb 1;59(3):622-32.

Zhao J, Sharma Y, and Agarwal R. Significant inhibition by the flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin against 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate-caused modulation of antioxidant and inflammatory enzymes, and cyclo-oxygenase-2 and interleukin-1-alpha expression in SENCAR mouse epidermis: implications in the prevention of Stage I tumor production. Mol Carcinog. 1999 Dec;26(4):321-33.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredients:A Closer Look

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

sunscreenIn the last two articles we have covered the types of UV damage, and looked at the current range of common ingredients. With that out of the way, it is time to cover botanical sun care.

The simple truth is that, with the issues surrounding some of the chemical UV protection ingredients, you may not always want to lather up. When it comes to those days that you will spend hours out in the sun, the benefits outweigh the risks, and you should protect yourself from the suns damage.

For the days that you won’t be in the sun for long periods of time, though, it is better to use botanical products. Many botanical ingredients provide anti-oxidant protection, have anti-inflammatory properties, and have been shown to be able to repair the suns effects.

The advantage to using botanical sun products is that you aren’t covering your body in harmful chemicals. For the times that you are using the chemical products, a good botanical antioxidant can also provide protection against the damaging effects of the sunscreen itself.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredientsginko biloba

Studies are currently being done into botanical ingredients that provide UV protection. Some of the ingredients that I have listed do provide mild UVB protection, but they aren’t adequate for long term exposure. What you really want when you start to make a sun care product, from botanicals, are ingredients that provide antioxidant protection, and ingredients that help to repair the suns damage.

With that let’s look at some botanical ingredients that work well for sun care. The idea that some ingredients are better than others does hold true here, and I have tried to indicate the best ingredients for the job.

Botanical Antioxidants and Sun Care Ingredients

Ingredient Properties Useful for Sun Care Notes
Ginkgo Biloba Mild UVB ProtectionPowerful Antioxidant

Cancer Preventative

Repairs Damage Already Done

Along with mild UVB inhibition, Ginkgo Biloba is one of the better ingredients for sun care. It works to prevent the formation of cancer-causing free radicals. It is also effective in reducing the damage done by oxidization.
Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins AntioxidantPrevent Free Radical Formation

Healing Effects

Promotes Cells Natural Defenses

Inhibits Tumor Formation

Anti-Aging Properties

Grape seed is an ingredient that not only works to prevent and repair sun damage, it also promotes healing, and increases skin elasticity. When all of its properties are combined is becomes an excellent choice for sun care.
Green Tea EGCG AntioxidantBroad Spectrum UV Repair

Anti-Inflammatory

Mild UVB Protection

Tumor Prevention

Green tea EGCG is an excellent ingredient choice for skin products that will be applied before exposure to UV.It provides mild UVB protection, and prevents free radical formation, and oxidization by both UVB and UVA rays. In other words it helps to stop the damage before it occurs.
Gynostemma extract 95% (Jiaogulan extract ) Poweful AntioxidantAptogenic (increases the bodies resistance to stress). Gystoemma is an antioxidant that may be used for sun care.
Liquid Lecithin Prevents UV Induced Collagen ReductionIncreases the skins resistance to UV damage. Lecithin is actually an emulsifying ingredient. Since it has advantages for sun care, it should be the emulsifier of choice for sun care products.
Yeast Beta 1-3 Glucan Anti-InflammatoryHealing Properties For after sun exposure, Yeast Beta Glucan can help to promote healing and to reduce inflammation from sunburns.It is more often used in anti-aging formulations, but sun damage and anti-aging products often go hand in hand (since UV promotes aging).
Pine Bark Proanthocyanidins AntioxidantHealing

Reduces Free Radical Production

Reduces Pigmentation caused by UV

Promotes Healing Overall

Reduces signs of aging caused by UV exposure

Pine bark can also be an excellent antioxidant. With its other qualities is another great choice for sun care formulations. There is also research being done that suggests pine bark may be a good UVB and UVA filter.
Pomegranate extract Powerful AntioxidantAnti-Tumor Properties

Promotes Healing

Helps to prevent cancerous changes

Pomegrante is another ingredient that can be a good choice for both before and after UV exposure. It has powerful antioxidant properties, and has been shown to reduce cancerous changes after over exposure to the sun.
Quercetin AntioxidantPrevents Free Radical Formation Quercetin is used as an antioxidant in sun care products.
Silymarin (milk thistle extract) Powerful AntioxidantPrevents Free Radical Formation

Promotes Healing After UV Exposure

Signifigantly Reduces DNA Damage

Silmarin is one of the best antioxidants for sun care. Along with properties that help to prevent sun damage, it has even been shown to reduce, and even reverse tumor growth in mice.
Soy Isoflavones AntioxidantReduces Sunspots

Promotes Healing of UV Induced Damage.

Since soy isoflavone has color corrective properties, along with antioxidant properties, it is a good choice for after UV exposure.

Conclusion – Protect Yourself

With the last three article we have covered UV damage, and how to protect yourself. You should now have a good knowledge of ingredients that can be harmful, and those that work for you. With this last article you also have a good guide to ingredients to use in your botanical sun care products.  When it comes to sun protection and to DIY skin care, choosing the right ingredients for the job is important to ensuring your skin’s health!

BulkActives’ List of active ingredients for skin care

Tuesday, March 3rd, 2009

This is BulkActives’ current list of active ingredients, cosmeceuticals, or skin actives for DIY and make your own, homemade skin care products:

Allantoin

Alpha Lipoic Acid (Thioctic acid, RS-ALA)

L-ascorbic Acid (Ascorbic Acid, L- , Vitamin C)

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Beta 1-3 Glucan YEAST (70%)

Beta 1-3,1-4 Glucan OAT(90%)

Beta Hydroxy acid (Salicylic Acid)

Bisabolol,Alpha (Natural)

Boswellia serrata

Centella Asiatica

CoEnzyme Q10 (CoQ10, Ubiquinone)

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate

DMAE Bitartrate

D-Panthenol USP (liquid)

Ellagic Acid

Ferulic Acid (Natural)

GABA

Gamma oryzanol

Ginkgo Biloba

Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D)

Glycyrrhizinic acid

Grape seed proanthocyanidins

Green Tea EGCG (90%) – white

Gynostemma

Hyaluronic Acid (NaH)

ultra low weight Hyaluronic Acid (ULMW NaH)

Idebenone

Jiaogulan

L-carnitine

L(+) Lactic acid

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Niacinamide

Pantothenic acid

Pine Bark Proanthocyanidins (95%)

Pomegranate Extract (Ellagic acid 40%)

Quercetin

Resveratrol (98%) – white

Saw Palmetto

Silymarin

Soy isoflavones

White Willow – bark extract

Wild Yam

5 Reasons to Make Your Own DIY Skin Care Products

Friday, February 27th, 2009

DIY skin care with BulkActivesWhen it comes to skin care, the products you choose are important. Just because a product advertises that it is anti-aging, or anti-inflammatory, doesn’t mean that it will work. In fact, with most commercially made products, the chemicals they use in making them work to reverse the positive effects that they could have had.

That store bought product likely includes detergents, chemical fragrances, dyes, and other toxic substances.  Your skin absorbs whatever you put on it. Using store-bought skin creams, and cleansers, simply put – can be a bad idea.

Even worse, many skin care product manufacturers work on the idea of label value.  By putting a minimum amount of the active skin care ingredients in their product, they can list it on their label.  The consumer then ends up buying an overpriced beauty product that has absolutely no affect on the skin.

Luckily there is a better way!

By making your own skin care products, also known as DIY skin care, the consumer now has the ability to tailor make a good product at a fair price.

Many people hold onto the idea that the best health products are naturally made. The same is true with skin care; choosing to make your own products is healthier.  It also allows you more freedom in choosing the right ingredients for the job.

There are actually many reasons why homemade products are better than their commercially made alternatives. Firstly you get the freedom to choose what products you put on your skin, and you get to rest assured that you know what you’re using. Most commercial products use long or invented names for common ingredients, or ingredients are included at ‘label value’ (just enough so that they can be listed on the label, but not enough to actually do anything useful). There are also other reasons: it will save you money, and it’s very rewarding to know that the anti-aging cream that you made actually worked!

The main reason that most people choose this route though, is the versatility if gives them. With homemade skin care products you can use recipes that are specifically made to target a certain type of problem.

Anti-Aging DIY Skin Care

One reason people seek out information and recipes for skin care, is for anti-aging products. There are literally thousands of products out there that claim to be wrinkle tightening, or wrinkle relaxing. Very few of them actually work, and the ones that do will likely cost you hundreds of dollars for a small amount.

With homemade skin care, you can choose ingredients like DMA bitartrate, L-ascorbic acid, CoQ10, Idebenone, or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (among others). All which are clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, or have other anti aging qualities. There are also many ingredients that are meant for UV damage protection, or UV damage repair, which can reduce the aging of the skin in the first place.

Anti-Inflammatory DIY Skin Care

The next reason to make your own skin care products is for anti-inflammatory treatments. Store bought products, of this type, often include steroids in their ingredients. Steroids can  have many other adverse effects.

Ginkgo Biloba, Green Tea EGCG, Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins are just a few of the ingredients that you can use to take a holistic approach to anti-inflammatory cream.

Home Made Antioxidants

The term antioxidant is all the rage in health circles lately. As we learn more about oxidization, free radicals, and their effects on our health antioxidants have become an important part of health in general.

When you choose to make your own skin care products you can choose from scientifically proven anti-oxidants such as silymarin, Pine bark Proanthocyanidins, or Pomegranate extract; all of which have many other benefits to your skin.

Anti-Acne DIY Skin Care

Another area where homemade skin care products are better is for acne prevention. Commercially made acne products include very harsh chemicals, such as Benzyl Peroxide, which is a proven carcinogenic substance.

When you choose to make your own skin care products acne you can use ingredients such as salicylic acid, or White Willow Bark. Both of which provide sebum control, and get to acne at its source!

Scar Care

The last area that I will discuss in this article is scar care. Commercially made products for this purpose often include chemicals that aren’t good for your skin at all.

With DIY skin care you can use ingredients like Centella asiatica. This particular substance has been clinically tested for stretch mark reduction, scar care, and has wound healing properties. There are also other natural products that have been tested for the same purpose (with very good results).

The truth of the matter is that along with all of the health benefits, making your own skin care products is rewarding, and it will save you a lot of money. When you’re ready to get started, take a look at our skin care recipes. There you’ll find all the instructions you need to get started with DIY skin care!