At BulkActives we have decided to discontinue selling Ellagic acid, because it does not dissolve well, and we do not want people to take crazy risks with sodium hydroxide.

Why sodium hydroxide?

Ellagic acid is NOT easy to dissolve.

It is ONLY soluble in s strong alkaline solvent such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) also know as Lye.

Sodium hydroxide is very dangerous to work with, it is highly caustic and will degrade organic tissue.

Theoretically one could make an alkaline solution of sodium hydroxide, dissolve the Ellagic acid, mix it into a cream, and then bring the pH down to a neutral level, but…

Why even bother with Ellagic?

Already many customers are making their DIY products fresh every week, because they do not want to use preservatives. Other customers do not use certain ingredients because they only dissolve in propylene glycol. So why even consider putting a solution of sodium hydroxide on your face.

As for Ellagic acid, is it really such an important cosmeceutical??

Sure, it is very popular in Japan, where it is used as an alternative to hydroquinone (which is banned in Japan). There are also a couple of great animal studies that suggest it a highly effective for preventing and repairing sun damage.

However, there are other products that are just as effective AND they are much easier to work with.

What are the alternatives?

Well, for sun protection the most researched product is l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially when combined with Vitamin E and Ferulic acid.

For lightning and brightening the combination of Niacinamide and Glucosamine is claimed to be highly effective. There is even a recent study that suggests that Niacinamide is nearly as effective as hydroquinone in the treatment of melsama.

There are many other when topically applied actives that, like Ellagic acid, may:

lighten and brighten skin (treat melsama/hyper pigmentation)

repair and treat sun damage

prevent or reduce UVA and UVB sun damage

increase skin elasticity

act as an anti oxidant

In conclusion!

I  know that we often believe that the one product we can’t use is the most effective. However, this is far from true with Ellagic acid. Ellagic acid is not a miracle product, and you will be better of using the above mentioned alternatives for DIY skin care.

Note to our wholesale customers:

we are still selling Ellagic acid  in amounts of 5kg +, just email us as per usual.

About Pumpkin Enzyme Peel (Pumpkin Bioferment)

Our Pumpkin Bioferment is a natural, gentle enzyme “peel” that you can use straight from the bottle or add to any lotion or cream. Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) proteases hydrolyze the proteins, exfoliating dead skin cells and impurities while delivering vitamins and nutrients to the skin. The Pumpkin Enzyme Peel leaves the skin cleansed and silky smooth. Pumpkin proteases and nutrients are released from fresh pumpkin cells by the action of the same organism that transforms milk into yoghurt.

Exfoliating with Pumpkin Enzyme Peel (Pumpkin Bioferment)

Exfoliating

Exfoliation will help keep your pores open and free of blackheads and acne. It will also show, faster, your new skin, made younger thanks to BulkActives’ skin actives.

There are three ways of exfoliating your skin: sandpaper or similar (crystals used in microexfoliation), chemical peels and enzymatic peels.

Chemical peels are acid solutions that will break down the proteins in the most external layers of the skin IF used with caution (used without caution they will burn the skin).

Enzyme peels

Enzymes loosen upper epidermis layers, cleanse the pores and improve complexion texture, elasticity and tone.

Enzyme exfoliation helps to maintain proper pH balance because it doesn’t involve acids. It is suitable for everyone and has no side effects. Enzyme peels are advised for treating dryness and overcoming allergy manifestations.

Pumpkin exfoliation

Pumpkin proteases (proteolytic enzymes) are known to hydrolyze the proteins, simultaneously peeling dead epithelium cells and blemishes and supplying skin with vitamins and nutrients. Pumpkin exfoliation makes skin look clean and silky smooth.

Merits of pumpkin enzymes

Pumpkin enzymes possess some positive effects. They:

Enzymatically excite cell turnover

• Unblock pores and dissolve oils
• Improve skin texture and tone due to exfoliation properties
• Moisturize the skin and keep it hydrated
• Treat hyperpigmentation.

Buy Pumpkin Enzyme Peel (Pumpkin Bioferment)

It is a well-known fact of life that exposure to UV light, especially the UVA component, festers skin disorders like melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Superficial remedies such as sunscreens are effective only to a limited extent. This realization has led to investigation of new methods to protect the skin from photo-damaging effects of solar UV radiation, or “photo-carcinogenesis” as it is called. Recent years have seen considerable interest in identifying naturally-occurring botanicals with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and which exhibit anti-carcinogenic and anti-mutagenic functionality.

It is in this light that the medicinal benefits of milk thistle have been a subject of intense research by scientists. Though its value as a medicine for a host of health conditions, including dermatological, has been known for over 2,000 years, it is only now that science has seriously begun looking at the role played by milk thistle and “Silymarin”, its active compound, in treating skin damage.

In an experiment conducted at Palacky University in Czechoslovakia (1), researchers studied the impact of two components of Silybum marianum (technical name for milk thistle) as both a preventative as well as treatment intervention for skin damage against UVA exposure. Their findings were positive, in that it was discovered that these two components – collectively known as “flavonolignans” – perform a host of functions, such as increasing the viability of keratinocytes in irradiated cells, inhibiting the production of ROS, stopping further depletion of ATP and GSH taking place at intracellular level, and halting the peroxidation of membrane lipids. Further, the activation of caspases-3 process that UVA exposure initiates gets halted and reversed when the two components of Silybum marianum are applied. The overall picture that emerges, therefore, is that Silybum marianum is a good candidate to be considered for inhibiting UV damage.

An interesting experiment conducted on mice at the University of Alabama in Birmingham has been reported in the March-April 2008 issue of Photochem Photobiology journal (2). Two observations from this research are of special relevance to us here. One, it is the CD11b+ cells, which are the major source of oxidative stress in UV-irradiated skin, were inhibited by Silymarin. The flavonoid also suppresses the infiltration of leukocytes that UV exposure had induced. The second important observation is that Silymarin not only halts UV damage, it also acts as a preventive measure. Another researcher has gone one step ahead with the identification of yet another reversal that this chemical performs to UV action: it reduces the volume of H2O2-producing and cytokine interleukin-10 producing cells, both of whose generation is activated by UV (6).

Nearly the same conclusion has been arrived at by researchers working in the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Colorado (3). Their research has shown a positive effect of Silibinin on the repair of UVB-induced DNA damage. Another experiment conducted at the Department of Dermatology of the University of Alabama has observed the inhibition affect that the flavonoid has on tumor promoters such as 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate, mezerein, benzoyal peroxide and okadaic acid (4).

Topical application of Silibinin prior to, or immediately after, UV irradiation has been found to inhibit thymine dimer positive cell generation that UV induces in the epidermis (5). This research has also shown that terminal sunburn cell formation that is again induced by UV is inhibited too, when Silibinin is applied.

A strong case for Silymarin being a very effective agent in inhibiting and reversing carcinogen and tumor-promoter-induced cancers is made by two independent researches. In both the experiments (7), (8), it has been reported that Silibinin inhibits cancer-causing cells (ERK1/2 activation) and promotes benign cells (JNK1/2, p38), making it an effective cancer-intervention agent for cancer.

A paper published in the journal “Cancer Research” details yet another in-depth investigation carried out on the efficacy of Silymarin as a possible intervention agent against Stage I and Stage II tumors (9). The paper reports that the milk thistle extract has been found to be especially useful in Stage I tumor suppression, and inhibits edema, hyperplasia, proliferation index and oxidant state which take place due to UV irradiation. This same result has been arrived by an independent group of researchers, who used a different chemical to induce skin edema in mice (10).

From the above researches being conducted around the world, it may safely be concluded that Silymarin is proving to be very effective in inhibiting UV-induced skin damage, and the day may not be far when milk thistle becomes one of the major ingredients in sunscreen lotions.

References

Svobodová A, Zdarilová A, Walterová D, and Vostálová J. Flavonolignans from Silybum marianum moderate UVA-induced oxidative damage to HaCaT keratinocytes. J Dermatol Sci. 2007 Dec;48(3):213-24. Epub 2007 Aug 3.

Katiyar SK, Meleth S, and Sharma SD. Silymarin, a flavonoid from milk thistle (Silybum marianum L.) inhibits UV-induced oxidative stress through targeting infiltrating CD11b+ cells in mouse skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):266-71. Epub 2007 Nov 28.

Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Mechanisms and preclinical efficacy of silibinin in preventing skin cancer. Eur J Cancer. 2005 Sep;41(13):1969-79.

Katiyar SK. Silymarin and skin cancer prevention: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. Int J Oncol. 2005 Jan;26(1):169-76.

Dhanalakshmi S, Mallikarjuna GU, Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Silibinin prevents ultraviolet radiation-caused skin damages in SKH-1 hairless mice via a decrease in thymine dimer positive cells and an up-regulation of p53-p21/Cip1 in epidermis. Carcinogenesis. 2004 Aug;25(8):1459-65. Epub 2004 Mar 19.

Katiyar SK. Treatment of Silymarin, a plant flavonoid, prevents ultraviolet light-induced immune suppression and oxidative stress in mouse skin. Int J Oncol. 2002 Dec;21(6):1213-22.

Singh RP, Tyagi AK, Zhao J, and Agarwal R. Silymarin inhibits growth and causes regression of established skin tumors in SENCAR mice via modulation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and induction of apoptosis. Carcinogenesis. 2002 Mar;23(3):499-510.

Jifu Zhao, Moushumi Lahiri-Chatterjee, Yogesh Sharma and Rajesh Agarwal. Inhibitory effect of a flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin on benzoyl peroxide-induced tumor promotion, oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in SENCAR mouse skin. Carcinogenesis, Vol. 21, No. 4, 811-816, April 2000.

Lahiri-Chatterjee M, Katiyar SK, Mohan RR, and Agarwal R. A flavonoid antioxidant, Silymarin, affords exceptionally high protection against tumor promotion in the SENCAR mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Cancer Res. 1999 Feb 1;59(3):622-32.

Zhao J, Sharma Y, and Agarwal R. Significant inhibition by the flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin against 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate-caused modulation of antioxidant and inflammatory enzymes, and cyclo-oxygenase-2 and interleukin-1-alpha expression in SENCAR mouse epidermis: implications in the prevention of Stage I tumor production. Mol Carcinog. 1999 Dec;26(4):321-33.

In the last two articles we have covered the types of UV damage, and looked at the current range of common ingredients. With that out of the way, it is time to cover botanical sun care.

The simple truth is that, with the issues surrounding some of the chemical UV protection ingredients, you may not always want to lather up. When it comes to those days that you will spend hours out in the sun, the benefits outweigh the risks, and you should protect yourself from the suns damage.

For the days that you won’t be in the sun for long periods of time, though, it is better to use botanical products. Many botanical ingredients provide anti-oxidant protection, have anti-inflammatory properties, and have been shown to be able to repair the suns effects.

The advantage to using botanical sun products is that you aren’t covering your body in harmful chemicals. For the times that you are using the chemical products, a good botanical antioxidant can also provide protection against the damaging effects of the sunscreen itself.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredients

Studies are currently being done into botanical ingredients that provide UV protection. Some of the ingredients that I have listed do provide mild UVB protection, but they aren’t adequate for long term exposure. What you really want when you start to make a sun care product, from botanicals, are ingredients that provide antioxidant protection, and ingredients that help to repair the suns damage.

With that let’s look at some botanical ingredients that work well for sun care. The idea that some ingredients are better than others does hold true here, and I have tried to indicate the best ingredients for the job.

Botanical Antioxidants and Sun Care Ingredients

Conclusion – Protect Yourself

With the last three article we have covered UV damage, and how to protect yourself. You should now have a good knowledge of ingredients that can be harmful, and those that work for you. With this last article you also have a good guide to ingredients to use in your botanical sun care products.  When it comes to sun protection and to DIY skin care, choosing the right ingredients for the job is important to ensuring your skin’s health!