At BulkActives we have decided to discontinue selling Ellagic acid, because it does not dissolve well, and we do not want people to take crazy risks with sodium hydroxide.

Why sodium hydroxide?

Ellagic acid is NOT easy to dissolve.

It is ONLY soluble in s strong alkaline solvent such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) also know as Lye.

Sodium hydroxide is very dangerous to work with, it is highly caustic and will degrade organic tissue.

Theoretically one could make an alkaline solution of sodium hydroxide, dissolve the Ellagic acid, mix it into a cream, and then bring the pH down to a neutral level, but…

 

Why even bother with Ellagic?

Already many customers are making their DIY products fresh every week, because they do not want to use preservatives. Other customers do not use certain ingredients because they only dissolve in propylene glycol. So why even consider putting a solution of sodium hydroxide on your face.

As for Ellagic acid, is it really such an important cosmeceutical??

Sure, it is very popular in Japan, where it is used as an alternative to hydroquinone (which is banned in Japan). There are also a couple of great animal studies that suggest it a highly effective for preventing and repairing sun damage.

However, there are other products that are just as effective AND they are much easier to work with.

 

What are the alternatives?

Well, for sun protection the most researched product is l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially when combined with Vitamin E and Ferulic acid.

For lightning and brightening the combination of Niacinamide and Glucosamine is claimed to be highly effective. There is even a recent study that suggests that Niacinamide is nearly as effective as hydroquinone in the treatment of melsama.

There are many other when topically applied actives that, like Ellagic acid, may:

lighten and brighten skin (treat melsama/hyper pigmentation)

repair and treat sun damage

prevent or reduce UVA and UVB sun damage

increase skin elasticity

act as an anti oxidant

 

In conclusion!

I  know that we often believe that the one product we can’t use is the most effective. However, this is far from true with Ellagic acid. Ellagic acid is not a miracle product, and you will be better of using the above mentioned alternatives for DIY skin care.

 

 

Note to our wholesale customers:

we are still selling Ellagic acid  in amounts of 5kg +, just email us as per usual.

 

 

 

It is a well-known fact of life that exposure to UV light, especially the UVA component, festers skin disorders like melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Superficial remedies such as sunscreens are effective only to a limited extent. This realization has led to investigation of new methods to protect the skin from photo-damaging effects of solar UV radiation, or “photo-carcinogenesis” as it is called. Recent years have seen considerable interest in identifying naturally-occurring botanicals with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and which exhibit anti-carcinogenic and anti-mutagenic functionality.

It is in this light that the medicinal benefits of milk thistle have been a subject of intense research by scientists. Though its value as a medicine for a host of health conditions, including dermatological, has been known for over 2,000 years, it is only now that science has seriously begun looking at the role played by milk thistle and “Silymarin”, its active compound, in treating skin damage.

In an experiment conducted at Palacky University in Czechoslovakia (1), researchers studied the impact of two components of Silybum marianum (technical name for milk thistle) as both a preventative as well as treatment intervention for skin damage against UVA exposure. Their findings were positive, in that it was discovered that these two components – collectively known as “flavonolignans” – perform a host of functions, such as increasing the viability of keratinocytes in irradiated cells, inhibiting the production of ROS, stopping further depletion of ATP and GSH taking place at intracellular level, and halting the peroxidation of membrane lipids. Further, the activation of caspases-3 process that UVA exposure initiates gets halted and reversed when the two components of Silybum marianum are applied. The overall picture that emerges, therefore, is that Silybum marianum is a good candidate to be considered for inhibiting UV damage.

An interesting experiment conducted on mice at the University of Alabama in Birmingham has been reported in the March-April 2008 issue of Photochem Photobiology journal (2). Two observations from this research are of special relevance to us here. One, it is the CD11b+ cells, which are the major source of oxidative stress in UV-irradiated skin, were inhibited by Silymarin. The flavonoid also suppresses the infiltration of leukocytes that UV exposure had induced. The second important observation is that Silymarin not only halts UV damage, it also acts as a preventive measure. Another researcher has gone one step ahead with the identification of yet another reversal that this chemical performs to UV action: it reduces the volume of H2O2-producing and cytokine interleukin-10 producing cells, both of whose generation is activated by UV (6).

Nearly the same conclusion has been arrived at by researchers working in the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Colorado (3). Their research has shown a positive effect of Silibinin on the repair of UVB-induced DNA damage. Another experiment conducted at the Department of Dermatology of the University of Alabama has observed the inhibition affect that the flavonoid has on tumor promoters such as 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate, mezerein, benzoyal peroxide and okadaic acid (4).

Topical application of Silibinin prior to, or immediately after, UV irradiation has been found to inhibit thymine dimer positive cell generation that UV induces in the epidermis (5). This research has also shown that terminal sunburn cell formation that is again induced by UV is inhibited too, when Silibinin is applied.

A strong case for Silymarin being a very effective agent in inhibiting and reversing carcinogen and tumor-promoter-induced cancers is made by two independent researches. In both the experiments (7), (8), it has been reported that Silibinin inhibits cancer-causing cells (ERK1/2 activation) and promotes benign cells (JNK1/2, p38), making it an effective cancer-intervention agent for cancer.

A paper published in the journal “Cancer Research” details yet another in-depth investigation carried out on the efficacy of Silymarin as a possible intervention agent against Stage I and Stage II tumors (9). The paper reports that the milk thistle extract has been found to be especially useful in Stage I tumor suppression, and inhibits edema, hyperplasia, proliferation index and oxidant state which take place due to UV irradiation. This same result has been arrived by an independent group of researchers, who used a different chemical to induce skin edema in mice (10).

From the above researches being conducted around the world, it may safely be concluded that Silymarin is proving to be very effective in inhibiting UV-induced skin damage, and the day may not be far when milk thistle becomes one of the major ingredients in sunscreen lotions.

References

Svobodová A, Zdarilová A, Walterová D, and Vostálová J. Flavonolignans from Silybum marianum moderate UVA-induced oxidative damage to HaCaT keratinocytes. J Dermatol Sci. 2007 Dec;48(3):213-24. Epub 2007 Aug 3.

Katiyar SK, Meleth S, and Sharma SD. Silymarin, a flavonoid from milk thistle (Silybum marianum L.) inhibits UV-induced oxidative stress through targeting infiltrating CD11b+ cells in mouse skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2008 Mar-Apr;84(2):266-71. Epub 2007 Nov 28.

Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Mechanisms and preclinical efficacy of silibinin in preventing skin cancer. Eur J Cancer. 2005 Sep;41(13):1969-79.

Katiyar SK. Silymarin and skin cancer prevention: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. Int J Oncol. 2005 Jan;26(1):169-76.

Dhanalakshmi S, Mallikarjuna GU, Singh RP, and Agarwal R. Silibinin prevents ultraviolet radiation-caused skin damages in SKH-1 hairless mice via a decrease in thymine dimer positive cells and an up-regulation of p53-p21/Cip1 in epidermis. Carcinogenesis. 2004 Aug;25(8):1459-65. Epub 2004 Mar 19.

Katiyar SK. Treatment of Silymarin, a plant flavonoid, prevents ultraviolet light-induced immune suppression and oxidative stress in mouse skin. Int J Oncol. 2002 Dec;21(6):1213-22.

Singh RP, Tyagi AK, Zhao J, and Agarwal R. Silymarin inhibits growth and causes regression of established skin tumors in SENCAR mice via modulation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and induction of apoptosis. Carcinogenesis. 2002 Mar;23(3):499-510.

Jifu Zhao, Moushumi Lahiri-Chatterjee, Yogesh Sharma and Rajesh Agarwal. Inhibitory effect of a flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin on benzoyl peroxide-induced tumor promotion, oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in SENCAR mouse skin. Carcinogenesis, Vol. 21, No. 4, 811-816, April 2000.

Lahiri-Chatterjee M, Katiyar SK, Mohan RR, and Agarwal R. A flavonoid antioxidant, Silymarin, affords exceptionally high protection against tumor promotion in the SENCAR mouse skin tumorigenesis model. Cancer Res. 1999 Feb 1;59(3):622-32.

Zhao J, Sharma Y, and Agarwal R. Significant inhibition by the flavonoid antioxidant Silymarin against 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate-caused modulation of antioxidant and inflammatory enzymes, and cyclo-oxygenase-2 and interleukin-1-alpha expression in SENCAR mouse epidermis: implications in the prevention of Stage I tumor production. Mol Carcinog. 1999 Dec;26(4):321-33.

In the last two articles we have covered the types of UV damage, and looked at the current range of common ingredients. With that out of the way, it is time to cover botanical sun care.

The simple truth is that, with the issues surrounding some of the chemical UV protection ingredients, you may not always want to lather up. When it comes to those days that you will spend hours out in the sun, the benefits outweigh the risks, and you should protect yourself from the suns damage.

For the days that you won’t be in the sun for long periods of time, though, it is better to use botanical products. Many botanical ingredients provide anti-oxidant protection, have anti-inflammatory properties, and have been shown to be able to repair the suns effects.

The advantage to using botanical sun products is that you aren’t covering your body in harmful chemicals. For the times that you are using the chemical products, a good botanical antioxidant can also provide protection against the damaging effects of the sunscreen itself.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredients

Studies are currently being done into botanical ingredients that provide UV protection. Some of the ingredients that I have listed do provide mild UVB protection, but they aren’t adequate for long term exposure. What you really want when you start to make a sun care product, from botanicals, are ingredients that provide antioxidant protection, and ingredients that help to repair the suns damage.

With that let’s look at some botanical ingredients that work well for sun care. The idea that some ingredients are better than others does hold true here, and I have tried to indicate the best ingredients for the job.

Botanical Antioxidants and Sun Care Ingredients

Ingredient	Properties Useful for Sun Care	Notes
Ginkgo Biloba	Mild UVB ProtectionPowerful Antioxidant Cancer Preventative Repairs Damage Already Done	Along with mild UVB inhibition, Ginkgo Biloba is one of the better ingredients for sun care. It works to prevent the formation of cancer-causing free radicals. It is also effective in reducing the damage done by oxidization.
Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins	AntioxidantPrevent Free Radical Formation Healing Effects Promotes Cells Natural Defenses Inhibits Tumor Formation Anti-Aging Properties	Grape seed is an ingredient that not only works to prevent and repair sun damage, it also promotes healing, and increases skin elasticity. When all of its properties are combined is becomes an excellent choice for sun care.
Green Tea EGCG	AntioxidantBroad Spectrum UV Repair Anti-Inflammatory Mild UVB Protection Tumor Prevention	Green tea EGCG is an excellent ingredient choice for skin products that will be applied before exposure to UV.It provides mild UVB protection, and prevents free radical formation, and oxidization by both UVB and UVA rays. In other words it helps to stop the damage before it occurs.
Gynostemma extract 95% (Jiaogulan extract )	Poweful AntioxidantAptogenic (increases the bodies resistance to stress).	Gystoemma is an antioxidant that may be used for sun care.
Liquid Lecithin	Prevents UV Induced Collagen ReductionIncreases the skins resistance to UV damage.	Lecithin is actually an emulsifying ingredient. Since it has advantages for sun care, it should be the emulsifier of choice for sun care products.
Yeast Beta 1-3 Glucan	Anti-InflammatoryHealing Properties	For after sun exposure, Yeast Beta Glucan can help to promote healing and to reduce inflammation from sunburns.It is more often used in anti-aging formulations, but sun damage and anti-aging products often go hand in hand (since UV promotes aging).
Pine Bark Proanthocyanidins	AntioxidantHealing Reduces Free Radical Production Reduces Pigmentation caused by UV Promotes Healing Overall Reduces signs of aging caused by UV exposure	Pine bark can also be an excellent antioxidant. With its other qualities is another great choice for sun care formulations. There is also research being done that suggests pine bark may be a good UVB and UVA filter.
Pomegranate extract	Powerful AntioxidantAnti-Tumor Properties Promotes Healing Helps to prevent cancerous changes	Pomegrante is another ingredient that can be a good choice for both before and after UV exposure. It has powerful antioxidant properties, and has been shown to reduce cancerous changes after over exposure to the sun.
Quercetin	AntioxidantPrevents Free Radical Formation	Quercetin is used as an antioxidant in sun care products.
Silymarin (milk thistle extract)	Powerful AntioxidantPrevents Free Radical Formation Promotes Healing After UV Exposure Signifigantly Reduces DNA Damage	Silmarin is one of the best antioxidants for sun care. Along with properties that help to prevent sun damage, it has even been shown to reduce, and even reverse tumor growth in mice.
Soy Isoflavones	AntioxidantReduces Sunspots Promotes Healing of UV Induced Damage.	Since soy isoflavone has color corrective properties, along with antioxidant properties, it is a good choice for after UV exposure.

Conclusion – Protect Yourself

With the last three article we have covered UV damage, and how to protect yourself. You should now have a good knowledge of ingredients that can be harmful, and those that work for you. With this last article you also have a good guide to ingredients to use in your botanical sun care products.  When it comes to sun protection and to DIY skin care, choosing the right ingredients for the job is important to ensuring your skin’s health!

In our last article, we discussed the different types of UV radiation, and talked about their effects on your skin. With that knowledge in hand, it is now time to discuss protection from the sun’s harmful rays. In may seem like a simple thing, but when you begin to look closer, choosing the right sun protection can be quite difficult.

Protecting yourself from all of the sun’s damaging effects is important, but it isn’t just sunburn from UVB rays, or long-term damage from UVA, that you have to worry about. In almost every product there is at least one ingredient that is unstable, ineffective, or downright dangerous.  There used to be some concern that the use of certain UV filers led to an increase in melanoma. This is still a somewhat controversial issue, but it appears to have been debunked(3).

However, there is plenty of evidence that numerous chemical UV filters have the potential to increase cancer-causing free radicals (6).  Others may have possible estrogenic and other adverse effects, and another is actually systemically absorbed and excreted in urine at a much higher rate than any other sunscreen filter (4,5)

The topic of sun protection could (and actually has been) covered in an entire book. We will do our best to cover everything here.

First let’s cover the wrong way to do it. Although there is some controversy surrounding the issue, studies have shown that some chemical products actually promote free radical production, thus causing more damage than they prevent! In brief “photo-unstable sunscreens may damage your skin.”

The Wrong Way to Protect Against UV

The topic of how not to protect against UV damage could actually be quite a lengthy one. For the purpose of this article we will just discuss some of the more damaging effects of sunscreens. In particular the chemical sunscreens that we buy in the stores can have adverse effects to the skin.

Simply applying a sunscreen with ingredients like avobenzone, bemotrizinol, or benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) isn’t enough. In fact, when used by themselves, some studies show that they do as much harm as good. There are a number of problems with using a commercials sunscreen alone. These include:

• Not all ingredients are created equal: It is important to be aware that not all ingredients are created equal. Some UV blockers work better than others, some are more stable and last longer, and each protects against only a certain range of UV wavelengths.
• Some ingredients cause harm: There are ingredients that are easily absorbed by the skin, and can cause damage. Oxybenzone for example, which is a very common ingredient in commercial sunscreens, has been shown to promote the production of free radicals.
• Some stabilizers cause damage: With ingredients that degrade, stabilizers are often used to make them last longer. This can lead to other problems. For example, in a sunscreen that uses avobenzone as a UV blocker, it may have octocrylene as a stabilizer. This increases the risk of irritation and adds to the low-level toxicity of the product.
• Constant chemical use on the skin has shown negative effects: Some studies have shown that the repeated use of chemical UV blockers can have negative effects; especially in those that promote free radical production.
• Micronized Ingredients are being found to cause problems. With physical UV blocks (the ones that look white on your skin) some companies have created micronized version of these products to make them more cosmetically elegant. Studies are showing that the micronized particles of zinc or titanium can actually be absorbed by the skin, and cause further problems.

With that in mind, it begins to become apparent that simply lathering up with chemical sunscreens each time you go out in the sun isn’t enough. To protect yourself, the right way, requires some special considerations.

The Right Way: Protection Against UVA, UVB, and Antioxidant Protection

To ensure that you have the best protection actually requires choosing the right product for the job. How much time will you be spending in the sun? Is it a cloudy day, or will you be out in the dead-heat of the midday sun? When you begin to look at the answers to these questions you can begin to choose the right product(s) to protect yourself. You also need to consider photo-stability of ingredients, the cosmetic elegance of the product, and whether to choose physical or chemical blockers. You also need to ensure that along with UV filters, you always have an antioxidant to reduce the production of free radicals.

Photo-stability of UV filters

The first thing to consider is the photo-stability of the ingredients. A sunscreen filter is photo-stable if it does not degrade in sunlight. Photo-unstable filters may lose their protective effect. The rate of degradation can be reduced by stabilizers. However, photo-stabilizers may increase the risk of irritation.

In practice, the most photo-unstable filter is avobenzone. Octyl methoxycinnamate is also photo-unstable but it does not degrade quite as quickly. However, the combination of avobenzone and octinoxate degrades faster than either alone (1).  Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) is also photo-unstable.

List of Common UV filters and blockers

Chemical name: zinc oxide
UV spectrum: UVA-1 , UVA-2, UVB
type :physical
stability: stable
irritation : none
Pros: broad range protection, safe, anti-irritant
cons: white residue

Chemical name: titanium dioxide
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVB
type: physical
stability: unstable
irritation: none
Pros: none
cons: insufficient protection against UVA-2, may generate free radicals, white residue

Chemical name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid  (ensulizole
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: may stabilize other chemicals, water soluble in salt form
cons: No UVA protection

Chemical name: homosalate
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: low
Pros: none
cons: No UVA protection, Poor range of UVB protection

Chemical name: octyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate)
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable (partially stabilized by bemotrizinol/ Tinosorb M)
irritation: potential high risk
Pros: none
cons: risk of possible estrogenic and other adverse effects

Chemical name: octyl salicylate (octisalate)
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: low
Pros: none
cons: Poor range of  UVB  protection

Chemical name: octocrylene
UV spectrum: UVB, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: very stable,sStabilizes other UV filters
irritation: low
Pros: very stable, stabilizes other UV filters
cons: weak, cannot be used alone

Chemical name: Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone)
UV spectrum: UVB, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: high risk
Pros: none
cons: weak, cannot be used alone, promotes generation of free radicals, systemically absorbed and excreted in urine at a much higher rate than other sunscreen filters.

Chemical name: Avobenzone ( butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 51)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: unstable (Octocrylene, increases stability. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reduce stability)
irritation: low
Pros: Full UVA protection
cons: loses effectiveness over time,             may produce low-level toxicity with long-term use

Chemical name: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor , 4-MBC, 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene) bornan-2-one , 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor
UV spectrum: UVB
type: chemical
stability: unstable
irritation: potential high risk
Pros: Stabilizes Avobenzone
cons:risk of possible estrogenic and other adverse effects, not approved in the USA

Chemical name: Ecamsule/terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid  (Mexoryl SX and XL)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2
type: chemical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: Ecamsule is acidic, the alkaline base used for neutralizing may cause irritation for some people.
cons: Full UVA protection, photo-stable, expensive -patented by L’Oreal

Chemical name: Bisoctrizole/methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol  (Tinosorb M, S)
UV spectrum: UVA-1, UVA-2, UVB
type: Chemical and Physical
stability: stable
irritation: low
Pros: Full UVA protection, photo-stable,pPartially stabilizes octinoxate
cons: Not approved in the USA

Stabilized Avobenzone

Due to the stability issues of avobenzone companies developed stabilized formulations.

Neutrogena Sunblock, Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch SPF uses Helioplex (a formulation containing avobenzone and oxybenzone). Banana Boat offers ‘AvoTriplex’, a formulation containg: avobenzone 3% , homosalate 8.78% , octinoxate 5% , octisalate 5% , octocrylene 2.5% , and oxybenzone 5%.

The problem with these products is the use of oxybenzone, which is a high-risk product.

European UVA filters

Until recently the only UVA filter available in the USA was Avobenzone. Sun-savvy consumers would therefore buy and import their sun protection products from abroad.  The most popular of these products was L’Oreal La Roche-Posay, which is formulated with Mexoryl SX and XL

In 2006 the FDA approved the sales of sun protection product containing Mexoryl SX and XL. It is now possible to buy L’Oreal La Roche-Posay products, as well as cheaper products made by their umbrella companies (Vichy Capital Soleil, L’Oreal Solar Expertise and Garnier Ambre Solaire).

Tinosorb (S and M) is an amazing hybrid filter and we will discuss it more, later in this article. At the time of this writing it is still not approved by the FDA. Those who are seriously committed to maintaining excellent skin health are still forced to import this product from the European Union or Canada.

Cosmetic elegance

Next we need to consider the cosmetic elegance of the sun screen. This is a concern to many.

Due to the nature of the UV filters, it is actually not easy to manufacture and effective UVA/UVB sun protection products which are also cosmetically elegant.  High oil content and excessive alcohol use are a problem for those with sensitive skin.  Excessive shininess (as opposed to the preferred matt look) and balling (when the product ends up forming little ‘balls’) are also a problem for those who have to look presentable during the day.

Physical and Chemical UV Protection

When prolonged exposure to the sun is planned, the best UV protection is offered by new the UV filters Mexoryl SX and XL. These new filters offer outstanding protection against the entire UVA range, they are photo-stable, non-irritating and have no reported toxicity concerns.

Physical protection (UV blocking) used to be only available with Zinc Oxide and Titanium dioxide.  Although Zinc Oxide has a good safety profile, there are numerous concerns about Titanium dioxide. However, non-micronized zinc keeps out both UVA, and UVB rays and is a good alternative for those with extremely sensitive skin.

With the absence of easily absorbed chemicals there isn’t a lot of damage that can be done by the sunscreen itself. The problem with these particular products is that they leave the skin white, which may not always be the look you want for that day on the beach.

It is worth noting that some products contain Zinc Oxide with the chemical Avobenzone, this combination should really be avoided as the already unstable Avobenzone can be degraded even more by Zinc Oxide.

An excellent alternative to the purely physical blockers is the new hybrid (chemical and physical blocker) Tinosorb (S and M). This insoluble powder is usually added to the water phase of a product, and it acts as both a chemical UVA filter AND a UVA reflector. In addition it partially stabilizes the commonly used UVB filter Octinoxate.

When a more cosmetically elegant sunscreen is required, a chemical sunscreen can be used with the antioxidant. What is important to ensure is that you choose one with ingredients that don’t generally have harmful effects, and that protect from both UVA and UVB rays. It is also quite important to understand that with some ingredients there isn’t a lot of studies that look at the long term effects or repeated use. For this reason chemical sunscreens should not be over used.

Anti-Oxidant Protection to Prevent Free Radical Production

Whenever you go plan to expose yourself to the sun (and even when you aren’t using a sunscreen) you should be using an antioxidant. The process is known as layering, and the antioxidant always goes on first. This works to counter the free radical production that comes both from sun exposure, and from the use of chemical UV blockers.

What do I use?

Sun protection for my face, daily use during the summer:

Last year I was using Anthelios XL Fluide Extreme from La Roche-Posay line. However, with the release of the tinosorbs I was ready for a change, so this year I am trying RoC Minesol protect SPF 60 spray-on .  I am not too happy with the formulation, although it is an elegant product, and the next sunscreen I will try is one of the Bioderma ones, also with the Tinysorbs.

I will write another post soon, with a detailed analysis of these sunscreens, and others!

All over body protection for when I am at the beach.

I used to use Ultra Sunscreen SPF 30+ made by the Australian Cancer Council. I especially loved their spray on, which was quick and effective on the beach. However, since learning more about sun protection I realized that this is really quite a bad formulation. In fact, I have given up on body sunscreens all together.

Most of my sun exposure occurs when I am windsurfing, sailing, kayaking or snorkeling.  I have had some nasty burns, and I have too many moles on my body. So, now I use a nice pair of UV protection swim shirts (SPF 50), and swim tights.  It may look silly, but I love being active on the beach and on the water, and there is no point taking risks.

Botanical Protection From UV

For the days when only a short time will be spent in the sun (quick trip to work, working in a windowless office), botanical protection may be a good choice. An effective antioxidant serum can be made using ingredients that have been proven to prevent UVB damage, reduce free radical activity and even reverse sun damage.  Using natural ingredients ensures that you’re not exposing your body to chemicals, and that you still have basic protection from the sun.

No matter what, a good antioxidant serum is essential to maintaining skin health, and should always be layered under your chemical or physical sun protection product. This will actually be the topic of the next article in this series of 3 on sun protection.

References

1.  Maier H, Schauberger G, Brunnhofer K, HoÈnigsmann H. Change of Ultraviolet Absorbance of Sunscreens by Exposureto Solar-Simulated Radiation. Division of Special and Environmental Dermatology, University of Vienna Medical School, Vienna, Austria; Institute of Medical Physics and Biostatistics, University of Veterinary Medicine Vienna, Vienna, Austria; Austrian Consumers’ Association, Vienna, Austria

2. Dr. G. Todorov. Sun Blocks/Sun Screens – an  online resource. Various pages used in researching chemical skin care ingredients. Accessed July 20, 2008 from http://www.smartskincare.com/skinprotection/sunblocks/

3.  Sunscreen use and the risk for melanoma: a quantitative review. Dennis LK, Beane Freeman LE, VanBeek MJ. College of Public Health and College of Medicine, University of Iowa, Iowa City, Iowa 52242, USA. leslie-dennis@uiowa.edu

4. mSarveiya V, Risk S, Benson HA. Liquid chromatographic assay for common sunscreen agents: application to in vivo assessment of skin penetration and systemic absorption in human volunteers. Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Man., Canada.

5.   Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans.

6.  Schallreuter KU, Wood JM, Farwell DW, Moore J, Edwards HG. Oxybenzone oxidation following solar irradiation of skin: photoprotection versus antioxidant inactivation. Department of Dermatology, University of Hamburg, Germany.

7.    Negishi, K; Higashi, S; Nakamura, T; Otsuka, C; Watanbe , M; Negishi, T. (2007) Oxidative DNA Damage Induced by 364-nm UVA Laser in Yeast Cells. Originally published by the Japanese Environmental Mutagen Society. Accessed online July 16th 2008 from http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jemsge/28/2/74/_pdf

8.   Brannon, Heather MD. (March 23, 2008). Effects of Sun on the Skin: Cellular Skin Changes Caused by UV Radiation. Article hosted on about.com. Accessed July 16th, 2008 from http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/suneffect.htm

9.   Hugget, J. (June 28, 2005) Less Than Full Protection: Most Sunscreens Do Only Half the Job, Blocking Unsafe UVB Rays But Not Skin-Damaging UVA. Can We Get Better Cover. Washington Post. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/06/27/AR2005062701099.html

10. Eldich, R Dr. and Various other Authors (2004) Photoprotection by Sunscreens with Topical Antioxidants and Systemic Antioxidants to Reduce Sun Exposure.  Journal of Long-Term Effects of Medical Implants. Begal House Inc. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://www.pacificcenterplasticsurgery.com/articles/Photoprotection-by-Sunscreens.pdf

11.  Reinheckel, Thomas,  Bohne, Marisela,  Halangk, Walter,  Augustin, Wolfgang,  Gollnick, Harald. Evaluation of UVA-mediated oxidative damage to proteins and lipids in extracorporeal photoimmunotherapy. A Study hosted on findarticles.com Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3931/is_199905/ai_n8838478

12. Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center, no author listed. Two Cancer Studies: Tomatoes, Green Tea, and Cancer. Originally published in the P&S Journal: Fall 1997, Vol.17, No.3 Research Reports. Accessed July 16th 2008 from http://cpmcnet.columbia.edu/news/journal/journal-o/archives/jour_v17n03_0009.html

13. MakeupAlley, no author listed. List of UVA-Protective Sunscreens. Accessed July 20th 2008 from http://www.makeupalley.com/user/notepad/sunscreens

14. MakeupAlley, no author listed. Information and frequently asked questions about sunscreen. Accessed July 20th 2008 from http://makeupalley.com/account/vn.asp?u=sunscreenFAQ

It is fairly common knowledge that the sun has damaging effects on the skin. Anyone who has spent anytime soaking up the sun’s rays can likely tell you all about sunburns, and anyone who has ever read a newspaper or watched the evening news will likely be able to tell you that the sun is responsible for many types of skin cancer. What most of us aren’t aware of, however, are the different types of UV light and the effects that they can have on our skin.

In this article we will look at the different types of UV radiation, and how they affect us. In a world where skin cancer is now the leading cause of cancer-related deaths, understanding the sun is more important than ever.

UVA, UVB, and UVC Rays

To begin our look at the sun’s damaging rays let’s first begin with a look at the different types of UV radiation. When we generalize, without getting extremely scientific, there are three basic types of UV radiation. They can be divided into categories according to wavelength:

• UVC: 100-290nm
• UVB: 290-320nm
• UVA: 320-400nm

The two types of UV rays that have damaging effects on the skin are UVB, and UVA rays. The other type, UVC, is absorbed by the atmosphere and has no damaging effects.

UVB Rays

The most well known type of UV ray is UVB. These rays vary throughout the day, and are at their highest from 10am to 2pm. The summer months tend to be the worst for UVB damage, accounting for 70% of most people’s exposure.

UVB rays are responsible for tanning, sunburns, and in general cause the most immediately visible damage.UVB is generally considered to be the most potent and damaging type of UV light. It directly affects the epidermis (upper layer of skin), and causes damage quickly.

This is what most sunscreens protect against. In fact, that Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which is listed on your commercially bought sunscreen, directly correlates to UVB protection.

UVA Rays

The other type of UV light that causes harm is UVA. There are actually two types of UVA rays: shortwave UVA (also known as UVA II), and long-wave UVA (UVA I). The second type (UVA I) is the one that is most damaging to the skin.

Until recently UVA light was thought to have little effect on the skin. Recent studies have altered that perception.

UVA light is different than UVB in that it has some unique qualities. Firstly, it isn’t more prevalent at any time of the day. Whenever the sun is up, UVA light remains constant. It is also different in that it cannot be filtered by common glass. Window glass and automobile glass cannot stop UVA rays from passing through.

UVA has the ability to penetrate deep within the skin to affect the dermis. Its effects are more long term, and exposure to UVA light can build with time. Most sunscreens do not protect against UVA light, and until recently actually, none of them did.

Understanding the Effects of UVA and UVB Exposure

With a basic understanding of UV light, let’s begin to discuss how sunlight really affects the skin. Exposure to the sun has both short and long term effects, and understanding those dangers is the first step in being able to protect yourself.

Short-term Effects of UV Exposure

UVB light is responsible for most of the shorter term effects of sun damage. These include: sunburn, discoloration, tanning (yes a tan is damage to), and skin hyperplasia, as well as other short term effects. Too much exposure to UVB light leads to a thickening of the outer layer of skin. This is the body’s natural defense but can also cause more damage, since it also causes the epidermis to absorb and scatter more of the UVB light.

The most damaging effects of UVB light come with sunburn. Acute sunburn can lead to even more damage. The most danger occurs when the skin peels.

Peeling occurs when the body kills its cells as a last ditch effort to repair the outer layer of skin, this process is called Apoptosis. The problem is that when this occurs, under certain conditions that come with UV exposure, the body is unable to properly kill the cell. This can lead to a damaged cell that divides and turns into a tumor, and even becomes cancerous.

Some of the other short term effects of exposure to both UVB and UVA light include:

1. A reduction in  collagen production
2. An increase in free radicals which prevent normal cell function
3. Damage to enzymes  that repair DNA
4. Negative effects on your immune system as a whole.
5. Free Radical Production that causes damage to the cells, and also causes serious long term effects.

Long Term Effects of UV Exposure

The long term effects are where things begin to get even scarier. Both UVA and UVB light have long term effects.

One thing that should be noted is that exposure to UVA light builds over time. Unlike UVB exposure where the epidermis is damaged and the body then repairs it, UVA exposure adds upon itself. In other words – 5 minutes today, 1 hour in the sun tomorrow, 3 hours on the beach last Friday, and tomorrows trip to the zoo – all combine and add to the damage that has already been done.

This leads to a few common long term problems. These include free radical damage, photo-aging, and photocarcinogenisis.

Free Radical Production: One of the long term effects of UV exposure is free radical production. Free radicals are chemical particles that have at least one malfunctioning or missing electron. In the skin the most common free radicals are oxygen molecules. These tiny particles have the ability to chip away at a cell, causing it damage. After a cell is damaged the free radicals can further damage DNA and RNA that actually make the cell. Free radicals contribute to both photo-aging, and photocarcinogenesis.

Photo-Aging: UVA light is the type of ray mostly responsible for photo-aging. UVB exposure can add to this by repeatedly damaging the skin, but most UVB light is absorbed by the epidermal layer. UVA gets right under the epidermis.

Photocarcinogenesis: Both UVA and UVB light can cause skin cancer. UVB light does so by causing damage, and promoting free radicals that can alter DNA. Recent studies are beginning to show that UVA light is capable of directly altering DNA through the production of free radicals as well, which can lead to malignant tumors and even cancer.

The simple truth is that a basic understanding of UV light and the damage it can cause is the first step in protecting yourself from the negative effects of the sun.

References

Negishi, K; Higashi, S; Nakamura, T; Otsuka, C; Watanbe , M; Negishi, T. (2007) Oxidative DNA Damage Induced by 364-nm UVA Laser in Yeast Cells. Originally published by the Japanese Environmental Mutagen Society. Accessed online July 16^th 2008 from http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jemsge/28/2/74/_pdf

Brannon, Heather MD. (March 23, 2008). Effects of Sun on the Skin: Cellular Skin Changes Caused by UV Radiation. Article hosted on about.com. Accessed July 16^th, 2008 from http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/suneffect.htm

Hugget, J. (June 28, 2005) Less Than Full Protection: Most Sunscreens Do Only Half the Job, Blocking Unsafe UVB Rays But Not Skin-Damaging UVA. Can We Get Better Cover. Washington Post. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/06/27/AR2005062701099.html

Eldich, R Dr. and Various other Authors (2004) Photoprotection by Sunscreens with Topical Antioxidants and Systemic Antioxidants to Reduce Sun Exposure.  Journal of Long-Term Effects of Medical Implants. Begal House Inc. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://www.pacificcenterplasticsurgery.com/articles/Photoprotection-by-Sunscreens.pdf

Reinheckel, Thomas,  Bohne, Marisela,  Halangk, Walter,  Augustin, Wolfgang,  Gollnick, Harald. Evaluation of UVA-mediated oxidative damage to proteins and lipids in extracorporeal photoimmunotherapy. A Study hosted on findarticles.com Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3931/is_199905/ai_n8838478

Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center, no author listed. Two Cancer Studies: Tomatoes, Green Tea, and Cancer. Originally published in the P&S Journal: Fall 1997, Vol.17, No.3 Research Reports. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://cpmcnet.columbia.edu/news/journal/journal-o/archives/jour_v17n03_0009.html