In the last two articles we have covered the types of UV damage, and looked at the current range of common ingredients. With that out of the way, it is time to cover botanical sun care.

The simple truth is that, with the issues surrounding some of the chemical UV protection ingredients, you may not always want to lather up. When it comes to those days that you will spend hours out in the sun, the benefits outweigh the risks, and you should protect yourself from the suns damage.

For the days that you won’t be in the sun for long periods of time, though, it is better to use botanical products. Many botanical ingredients provide anti-oxidant protection, have anti-inflammatory properties, and have been shown to be able to repair the suns effects.

The advantage to using botanical sun products is that you aren’t covering your body in harmful chemicals. For the times that you are using the chemical products, a good botanical antioxidant can also provide protection against the damaging effects of the sunscreen itself.

Botanical Sun Care Ingredients

Studies are currently being done into botanical ingredients that provide UV protection. Some of the ingredients that I have listed do provide mild UVB protection, but they aren’t adequate for long term exposure. What you really want when you start to make a sun care product, from botanicals, are ingredients that provide antioxidant protection, and ingredients that help to repair the suns damage.

With that let’s look at some botanical ingredients that work well for sun care. The idea that some ingredients are better than others does hold true here, and I have tried to indicate the best ingredients for the job.

Botanical Antioxidants and Sun Care Ingredients

Conclusion – Protect Yourself

With the last three article we have covered UV damage, and how to protect yourself. You should now have a good knowledge of ingredients that can be harmful, and those that work for you. With this last article you also have a good guide to ingredients to use in your botanical sun care products.  When it comes to sun protection and to DIY skin care, choosing the right ingredients for the job is important to ensuring your skin’s health!

This is BulkActives’ current list of active ingredients, cosmeceuticals, or skin actives for DIY and make your own, homemade skin care products:

Allantoin

Alpha Lipoic Acid (Thioctic acid, RS-ALA)

L-ascorbic Acid (Ascorbic Acid, L- , Vitamin C)

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate)

Beta 1-3 Glucan YEAST (70%)

Beta 1-3,1-4 Glucan OAT(90%)

Beta Hydroxy acid (Salicylic Acid)

Bisabolol,Alpha (Natural)

Boswellia serrata

Centella Asiatica

CoEnzyme Q10 (CoQ10, Ubiquinone)

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate

DMAE Bitartrate

D-Panthenol USP (liquid)

Ellagic Acid

Ferulic Acid (Natural)

GABA

Gamma oryzanol

Ginkgo Biloba

Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D)

Glycyrrhizinic acid

Grape seed proanthocyanidins

Green Tea EGCG (90%) – white

Gynostemma

Hyaluronic Acid (NaH)

ultra low weight Hyaluronic Acid (ULMW NaH)

Idebenone

Jiaogulan

L-carnitine

L(+) Lactic acid

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Niacinamide

Pantothenic acid

Pine Bark Proanthocyanidins (95%)

Pomegranate Extract (Ellagic acid 40%)

Quercetin

Resveratrol (98%) – white

Saw Palmetto

Silymarin

Soy isoflavones

White Willow – bark extract

Wild Yam

It is fairly common knowledge that the sun has damaging effects on the skin. Anyone who has spent anytime soaking up the sun’s rays can likely tell you all about sunburns, and anyone who has ever read a newspaper or watched the evening news will likely be able to tell you that the sun is responsible for many types of skin cancer. What most of us aren’t aware of, however, are the different types of UV light and the effects that they can have on our skin.

In this article we will look at the different types of UV radiation, and how they affect us. In a world where skin cancer is now the leading cause of cancer-related deaths, understanding the sun is more important than ever.

UVA, UVB, and UVC Rays

To begin our look at the sun’s damaging rays let’s first begin with a look at the different types of UV radiation. When we generalize, without getting extremely scientific, there are three basic types of UV radiation. They can be divided into categories according to wavelength:

• UVC: 100-290nm
• UVB: 290-320nm
• UVA: 320-400nm

The two types of UV rays that have damaging effects on the skin are UVB, and UVA rays. The other type, UVC, is absorbed by the atmosphere and has no damaging effects.

UVB Rays

The most well known type of UV ray is UVB. These rays vary throughout the day, and are at their highest from 10am to 2pm. The summer months tend to be the worst for UVB damage, accounting for 70% of most people’s exposure.

UVB rays are responsible for tanning, sunburns, and in general cause the most immediately visible damage.UVB is generally considered to be the most potent and damaging type of UV light. It directly affects the epidermis (upper layer of skin), and causes damage quickly.

This is what most sunscreens protect against. In fact, that Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which is listed on your commercially bought sunscreen, directly correlates to UVB protection.

UVA Rays

The other type of UV light that causes harm is UVA. There are actually two types of UVA rays: shortwave UVA (also known as UVA II), and long-wave UVA (UVA I). The second type (UVA I) is the one that is most damaging to the skin.

Until recently UVA light was thought to have little effect on the skin. Recent studies have altered that perception.

UVA light is different than UVB in that it has some unique qualities. Firstly, it isn’t more prevalent at any time of the day. Whenever the sun is up, UVA light remains constant. It is also different in that it cannot be filtered by common glass. Window glass and automobile glass cannot stop UVA rays from passing through.

UVA has the ability to penetrate deep within the skin to affect the dermis. Its effects are more long term, and exposure to UVA light can build with time. Most sunscreens do not protect against UVA light, and until recently actually, none of them did.

Understanding the Effects of UVA and UVB Exposure

With a basic understanding of UV light, let’s begin to discuss how sunlight really affects the skin. Exposure to the sun has both short and long term effects, and understanding those dangers is the first step in being able to protect yourself.

Short-term Effects of UV Exposure

UVB light is responsible for most of the shorter term effects of sun damage. These include: sunburn, discoloration, tanning (yes a tan is damage to), and skin hyperplasia, as well as other short term effects. Too much exposure to UVB light leads to a thickening of the outer layer of skin. This is the body’s natural defense but can also cause more damage, since it also causes the epidermis to absorb and scatter more of the UVB light.

The most damaging effects of UVB light come with sunburn. Acute sunburn can lead to even more damage. The most danger occurs when the skin peels.

Peeling occurs when the body kills its cells as a last ditch effort to repair the outer layer of skin, this process is called Apoptosis. The problem is that when this occurs, under certain conditions that come with UV exposure, the body is unable to properly kill the cell. This can lead to a damaged cell that divides and turns into a tumor, and even becomes cancerous.

Some of the other short term effects of exposure to both UVB and UVA light include:

1. A reduction in  collagen production
2. An increase in free radicals which prevent normal cell function
3. Damage to enzymes  that repair DNA
4. Negative effects on your immune system as a whole.
5. Free Radical Production that causes damage to the cells, and also causes serious long term effects.

Long Term Effects of UV Exposure

The long term effects are where things begin to get even scarier. Both UVA and UVB light have long term effects.

One thing that should be noted is that exposure to UVA light builds over time. Unlike UVB exposure where the epidermis is damaged and the body then repairs it, UVA exposure adds upon itself. In other words – 5 minutes today, 1 hour in the sun tomorrow, 3 hours on the beach last Friday, and tomorrows trip to the zoo – all combine and add to the damage that has already been done.

This leads to a few common long term problems. These include free radical damage, photo-aging, and photocarcinogenisis.

Free Radical Production: One of the long term effects of UV exposure is free radical production. Free radicals are chemical particles that have at least one malfunctioning or missing electron. In the skin the most common free radicals are oxygen molecules. These tiny particles have the ability to chip away at a cell, causing it damage. After a cell is damaged the free radicals can further damage DNA and RNA that actually make the cell. Free radicals contribute to both photo-aging, and photocarcinogenesis.

Photo-Aging: UVA light is the type of ray mostly responsible for photo-aging. UVB exposure can add to this by repeatedly damaging the skin, but most UVB light is absorbed by the epidermal layer. UVA gets right under the epidermis.

Photocarcinogenesis: Both UVA and UVB light can cause skin cancer. UVB light does so by causing damage, and promoting free radicals that can alter DNA. Recent studies are beginning to show that UVA light is capable of directly altering DNA through the production of free radicals as well, which can lead to malignant tumors and even cancer.

The simple truth is that a basic understanding of UV light and the damage it can cause is the first step in protecting yourself from the negative effects of the sun.

References

Negishi, K; Higashi, S; Nakamura, T; Otsuka, C; Watanbe , M; Negishi, T. (2007) Oxidative DNA Damage Induced by 364-nm UVA Laser in Yeast Cells. Originally published by the Japanese Environmental Mutagen Society. Accessed online July 16^th 2008 from http://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jemsge/28/2/74/_pdf

Brannon, Heather MD. (March 23, 2008). Effects of Sun on the Skin: Cellular Skin Changes Caused by UV Radiation. Article hosted on about.com. Accessed July 16^th, 2008 from http://dermatology.about.com/cs/beauty/a/suneffect.htm

Hugget, J. (June 28, 2005) Less Than Full Protection: Most Sunscreens Do Only Half the Job, Blocking Unsafe UVB Rays But Not Skin-Damaging UVA. Can We Get Better Cover. Washington Post. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/06/27/AR2005062701099.html

Eldich, R Dr. and Various other Authors (2004) Photoprotection by Sunscreens with Topical Antioxidants and Systemic Antioxidants to Reduce Sun Exposure.  Journal of Long-Term Effects of Medical Implants. Begal House Inc. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://www.pacificcenterplasticsurgery.com/articles/Photoprotection-by-Sunscreens.pdf

Reinheckel, Thomas,  Bohne, Marisela,  Halangk, Walter,  Augustin, Wolfgang,  Gollnick, Harald. Evaluation of UVA-mediated oxidative damage to proteins and lipids in extracorporeal photoimmunotherapy. A Study hosted on findarticles.com Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3931/is_199905/ai_n8838478

Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center, no author listed. Two Cancer Studies: Tomatoes, Green Tea, and Cancer. Originally published in the P&S Journal: Fall 1997, Vol.17, No.3 Research Reports. Accessed July 16^th 2008 from http://cpmcnet.columbia.edu/news/journal/journal-o/archives/jour_v17n03_0009.html

A Look at Skin Care Ingredients and Terminology

If you’re new to the world of do-it-yourself skin care, then sometimes the terminology that is used can seem quite daunting. Words like cosmeceuticals, skin actives, and active ingredients may seem unfamiliar. Then of course there is learning about the skin care ingredients themselves and trying to learn how they fit and what their benefits can be to you.

Getting familiar with the world of cosmetics and skin care doesn’t have to be difficult. To help you get started we have put together this brief guide to common terms you’ll find. This isn’t a definitive list of terminology. Moreover it will give you a start in understanding articles and recipes that you find for DIY skin care.

Cosmeceuticals, Active Ingredients, and Skin Actives

First let’s take a look at three very common terms in the world of skin care. All three of these terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but each one does have a slightly different meaning.

Comeceuticals – The term cosmeceuticals refers to products that have both cosmetic and pharmaceutical benefits (it’s also a combination of those two words). As an example White Willow Bark extract is used for exfoliating (a cosmetic benefit). It also provides sebum control (a pharmaceutical benefit). The term may be applied to a single ingredient or a whole product, and it is often used in cosmetic advertising.

Active Ingredients – The active ingredients in any skin care recipe are those ingredients that actually serve a purpose related to skin care. Most recipes will include several ingredients to make a cream or scrub, and only one or two active ingredients.

Skin Actives – Here’s a term that you will find often in the world of cosmetics and skin care. The term “skin actives” is often used to refer to the active ingredients in many recipes. It is also included in the name of a number of cosmetic products, brands, and used in cosmetic advertising.

Other Important Terms Related to Skin Care Ingredients

There are also other terms you will find often when reading about skin care. If you browse any ingredient on our site, it shows that skin care ingredient’s properties in a list. Here are the quick definitions of some of the most common terms (as they apply to skin care ingredients).

Antioxidant - any substance capable of reducing oxidization and counteracting the damaging effects of oxidization on the skin.

Anti-inflammatory – any substance capable of reducing and/or preventing swelling in the skin

Skin elasticity – Refers to the ability of the skin to pull itself tight. As we age there is a fall in elasticity which often results in the formation of wrinkles.

Capillary health – any substance capable of promoting blood flow and cellular regeneration of the capillaries in the skin

Collagen production – substances that promote the production of collagen (provides strength and resilience to skin cells, thus reducing wrinkles and fine lines)

Emulsifiers – substances that promote the mixing of substances that wouldn’t normally mix together well

Exfoliating - substances that promote the removal of dead skin, thus revealing the healthier layer below.

Skin lightening – substances capable of reducing skin pigmentation

Skin brightening – substances that promotes proper pigmentation and reduces discoloration due to age spots, etc

Wrinkle Tightening – substances that help to increase skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles

Oil control (or sebum control) – Sebum is the oil responsible for blemishes that come with acne. Substances that control the production of oil can reduce acne.

With a brief look at some terminology it is very likely that you’re ready to start making your own skin care products. An easy way to get started is with our skin care recipe list. Each recipe links to the specific ingredients you will need, and provides instructions on how to make your next skin-care creation.

When it comes to skin care, the products you choose are important. Just because a product advertises that it is anti-aging, or anti-inflammatory, doesn’t mean that it will work. In fact, with most commercially made products, the chemicals they use in making them work to reverse the positive effects that they could have had.

That store bought product likely includes detergents, chemical fragrances, dyes, and other toxic substances.  Your skin absorbs whatever you put on it. Using store-bought skin creams, and cleansers, simply put – can be a bad idea.

Even worse, many skin care product manufacturers work on the idea of label value.  By putting a minimum amount of the active skin care ingredients in their product, they can list it on their label.  The consumer then ends up buying an overpriced beauty product that has absolutely no affect on the skin.

Luckily there is a better way!

By making your own skin care products, also known as DIY skin care, the consumer now has the ability to tailor make a good product at a fair price.

Many people hold onto the idea that the best health products are naturally made. The same is true with skin care; choosing to make your own products is healthier.  It also allows you more freedom in choosing the right ingredients for the job.

There are actually many reasons why homemade products are better than their commercially made alternatives. Firstly you get the freedom to choose what products you put on your skin, and you get to rest assured that you know what you’re using. Most commercial products use long or invented names for common ingredients, or ingredients are included at ‘label value’ (just enough so that they can be listed on the label, but not enough to actually do anything useful). There are also other reasons: it will save you money, and it’s very rewarding to know that the anti-aging cream that you made actually worked!

The main reason that most people choose this route though, is the versatility if gives them. With homemade skin care products you can use recipes that are specifically made to target a certain type of problem.

Anti-Aging DIY Skin Care

One reason people seek out information and recipes for skin care, is for anti-aging products. There are literally thousands of products out there that claim to be wrinkle tightening, or wrinkle relaxing. Very few of them actually work, and the ones that do will likely cost you hundreds of dollars for a small amount.

With homemade skin care, you can choose ingredients like DMA bitartrate, L-ascorbic acid, CoQ10, Idebenone, or Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (among others). All which are clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, or have other anti aging qualities. There are also many ingredients that are meant for UV damage protection, or UV damage repair, which can reduce the aging of the skin in the first place.

Anti-Inflammatory DIY Skin Care

The next reason to make your own skin care products is for anti-inflammatory treatments. Store bought products, of this type, often include steroids in their ingredients. Steroids can  have many other adverse effects.

Ginkgo Biloba, Green Tea EGCG, Grape Seed Proanthocyanidins are just a few of the ingredients that you can use to take a holistic approach to anti-inflammatory cream.

Home Made Antioxidants

The term antioxidant is all the rage in health circles lately. As we learn more about oxidization, free radicals, and their effects on our health antioxidants have become an important part of health in general.

When you choose to make your own skin care products you can choose from scientifically proven anti-oxidants such as silymarin, Pine bark Proanthocyanidins, or Pomegranate extract; all of which have many other benefits to your skin.

Anti-Acne DIY Skin Care

Another area where homemade skin care products are better is for acne prevention. Commercially made acne products include very harsh chemicals, such as Benzyl Peroxide, which is a proven carcinogenic substance.

When you choose to make your own skin care products acne you can use ingredients such as salicylic acid, or White Willow Bark. Both of which provide sebum control, and get to acne at its source!

Scar Care

The last area that I will discuss in this article is scar care. Commercially made products for this purpose often include chemicals that aren’t good for your skin at all.

With DIY skin care you can use ingredients like Centella asiatica. This particular substance has been clinically tested for stretch mark reduction, scar care, and has wound healing properties. There are also other natural products that have been tested for the same purpose (with very good results).

The truth of the matter is that along with all of the health benefits, making your own skin care products is rewarding, and it will save you a lot of money. When you’re ready to get started, take a look at our skin care recipes. There you’ll find all the instructions you need to get started with DIY skin care!