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Archive for November, 2011

Decyl glucoside in skin care

Saturday, November 5th, 2011

Decyl glucoside is an extremely mild and gentle nonionic surfactant naturally derived from sugar.

Decyl Glucoside is recommended for sensitive skin, facial wash products, shampoo and body wash.

Decyl Glucoside generates exceptional fine and stable foam comparable with that obtained using conventional anionic surfactants.

Decyl Glucoside:

  •  Good foaming power
  •  Compatible with all surfactants
  •  Tolerant of high electrolyte formulations (aloe)
  •  Compatible with cationic conditioning agents
  •  Mild but effective cleansing
  •  Improves skin tolerance of the formulation
  •  Maintains skin balance without dryness

 

What is Polyglycose (decyl glucoside)

Polyglycose (decyl glucoside) is considered to be part of a new generation of surfactants. In Europe, where the world’s strictest cosmetic regulations are in place under the EU Cosmetics Directive, the demand for the alkyl polyglucosides has increased by enormously.

Derived from sugar they are readily bio-degradable, low toxic, extremely mild and perform well in hard water conditions.

Several clinical skin irritancy tests show decyl glucoside to be non irritating, even at high concentrations with an extended contact period of 24 hours.

Decyl glucoside exhibits all of the mildness traits of nonionics, with the foam of an anionic. It is this unique characteristic that enables it to be utilized as both a primary and co-surfactant in formulations.

Many companies with a natural focus to their formulations are now turning to decyl glucoside as their primary, and in some cases only, surfactant. It is so mild that it doesn’t require blending with any of the mildness additives.

 Buy Decyl glucoside here

 

Gelmaker ULTRA – cold process self emulsifier

Wednesday, November 2nd, 2011

INCI Name: Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) Trideceth-6

 

Description:

Gelmaker ULTRA is an anionic acrylic copolymer dispersed in medicinal grade white oil. It is typically used as thickener for aqueous solutions and stable O/W emulsions at any stage of manufacture. It requires no pre-mixing or special storage facilities, even at low pH.

Typical applications:

Gelmaker ULTRA is design for use in a range of and applications in the cosmetic industry. Typically it is used to enhance the performance of skin and hair care formulations. A typical application level in a skin cream is around 0.4 – 4 % Gelmaker ULTRA as supplied.

─ Can be added to cold aqueous simply by agitation.

─ Aids suspension and stabilization of organic inorganic pigment.

─ High thickening efficiency, hence low usage levels in many applications.

─ Gives good uniform performance, this reproducibility is unattainable with natural gums.

─ Stable emulsion capability at broad pH range from 2 to 11

 Prime Functions:

─ Thickener

─ Suspending agent

─ Stabilizing agent

─ Emulsifying agent

─ Promotes good spreading characteristics

─ Opacifier

 Typical properties

Nature: Non – aqueous liquid dispersion of a polymer

Appearance: Mobile liquid

Color: Off white

Odor: Slight acrylic

Solids %: > 55

Viscosity as supplied (25oC): 600 – 1200 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.3; 30 rpm)

Viscosity of 1% solution at pH6: 10,000 – 15,000 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.6; 20 rpm)

Viscosity of 1% solution at pH3: 6,000 – 10,000 cps (Brookfield LVT sp.6; 20 rpm)

pH of 1% solution: 5.2 – 6.2

 Properties of Gelmaker ULTRA:

Gelmaker ULTRA is supplied in a concentrated liquid form that is freeze thaw stable. Gelmaker ULTRA allows the formulator to eliminate several stages from normal procedure. Gelmaker ULTRA eliminates the need to select specific nonionic emulsifiers in skin care systems. Gelmaker ULTRA eliminates the need to calculate H.L.B. No need to select specific nonionic emulsifiers in skin cares systems. No neutralization is required to generate viscosity build. Sodium chloride is not required to obtain viscosity build. Gelmaker ULTRA is designed for use in the presence of anionic and nonionic ingredients. Gelmaker ULTRA gives good emollients and rubs in characteristics in skin creams and lotions.

 Formulating with Gelmaker ULTRA:

Gelmaker ULTRA is designed for use in the presence of anionic and nonionic ingredients. It is particularly effective when formulating around pH 2 – 11. Gelmaker ULTRA can be used in formulations containing a wide range of oil and fat or silicone ingredients up to a total of 30%. This enables the simple formulation of skin creams without heating or the use of further emulsifiers.

 Typical application use levels:

Cosmetic Emulsion base agent, Thickening base agent, use dosage as 0.4 – 4.0%

Foundations and Make-up Remover thickening agent, use dosage as 0.1 – 1.0

 

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